Wrong Trend?

Hey Pres, I was all on board for jackets the past few seasons. But, this long cardigan has me stumped. I just dont think that a long boyfriend style cardigan compliments my figure nearly as much as a nice fitted jacket. How can I get in on this trend? Are shorter, fitted cardigans fresh and new? I have tried the belt and cardigan and it does nothing for me. I have a good, proportioned figure and a recently regained waist after 3 kids. I cant bear to hide it.



The jacket is, without a doubt, the most flattering piece of clothing ever invented. The jacket creates, all by itself, the waist, the bosom, the shoulders, and even the hip line. But that's not a good enough reason to hold onto the past. Work suiting aside, the only jacket that I would purchase just now is a leather Moto.

Sweaters depend more on the body for structure, and use color blocks to define the shape. They should compliment your new figure nicely.

Be sure that the sweaters that you are considering have the right angle of neckline to shape the upper chest, and that the button closure is at the right place, too.

Layer a crisp shirt under to add structure at the neckline, and at the cuffs. Roll the cuffs to the most flattering line on your arm; show off the thin wrist/forearm. Be sure that the collar of the shirt is the right size, too. Collars have become more narrow lately. Don't wear a sweater over a shapeless tee. Consider a sleeveless shirt under to conserve arm width; wear the sweater's arms rolled back and ruched up.

Open the bottom buttons on the sweater for an inverted Vee, so that the shirt or skirt's color shows at the hip line.

Choose the sweater's color carefully. Decide if contrast with your skirt, or blending at the hip line, is what you need (for elongation or for shortening of the torso.)
If you need sharp definition there, the shirt can be worn untucked to show the edge of the hem.

You can create some structural "diversion" by adding a cloth flower on the lapel of the sweater, exactly in the spot where you want to create a horizontal line. Horizontal sight lines across the chest emphasize your eyes.

Re-evaluate the belt. It may be too wide, too narrow, or worn at the wrong spot. Try the trick of using a rolled scarf, and making it wider and wider, then narrower and narrower, until you find the right visual "belt" width; make a note of that, and then shop for the belt.

Re-evalute the skirt. Is it narrow enough, especially at the hem? The pencil that supported your jackets may not be sharp enough for the sweater.

Try adding some other new structural elements, like ruffles on the shirt, and a long, open hoops or mixed beads necklace to create vertical lines, if that's what you need. Sweaters need fresh support items.

Don't give up too soon.

10 Tips For Fall 2009 Update

Hey Pres,
I have not done much Fall shopping and wanted your take on the new, updated elements and color to look for.
Maria


This year, it's really easy to update your look. There's no big shape/silhouette change, and there's no hot color except Gray, which is a neutral that most of us have in our wardrobes. But there are a few easily done tricks to make your ensembles fresh:

1) The Pencil is sharp. Pencil skirts are narrow. If you have a wide skirt with folds, wear it short. Narrow pencils can be short, or just below the knee if they are tight.

2)The Cardi lives. Cardis have replaced jackets as the flattering top layer. A belt will help with waist definition.

3) Casual pants are rolled. You can roll the hem of lightweight pants, or have them hemmed and cuffed. If you wear long pants, they must cover most of the shoe. Not too short!

4)Look for a shift dress (straight skirt) that you can use as a bottom layer. The dress may be a small (new!) print. You can wear the dress alone, or add cardis&jackets over so that it works as a skirt, too.

5) Ruffles are in. There's no easier way to put pizzaz into an outfit than to add a ruffled cardi or shirt. If your shape makes ruffles challenging, wear them around the cuffs or the collar, not across the bosom.

6) Beaded necklaces, especially mixed beads, with a ribbon closure, are hot. Be sure to adjust the length to work for the top.

7) Tights are genius. Look for patterned tights in neutral colors, or solid tights bright colors, to wear with your sharp pencil or short tulip.

8) Boots are the footwear of the season. Look for Motorcyle boots with straps&buckles to add to those pencils&tights.

9) Because of the mix of embellishments (necklaces, ruffles, Moto boots) the colors are neutral. Look for B&W small patterns and B&W tweeds.

10) Watch the Match! Old Matching is still out (particularly the very old Matchy, which picked up colors in shoes and bags.) New Match uses matched blocks of colors, especially black, as in black tights and shoes.

Here's Some Inspiration

Ramping It Up

Hi Pres! My mom has recently expressed to me that she wants to have a more upscale look to her wardrobe. She has always been very frugal (her mother was a child of the Depression), and she used to buy some of her clothing from the Goodwill, even though she could afford to spend more.

Her style is classic (she dressed preppie back when it was popular). She is 61, and a pear shape, but losing the waist definition. She's a size 14. She describes herself as "porky", but I think she's nuts! :)

Can you recommend some stores/looks for her to try? She's visiting her (very chic and wealthy) brother in D.C., and she wants to dress appropriately for the occasion, but I think she's also ready to take her wardrobe to the next level.
Thanks, Elly


This will be great fun!
For ramping up a look at any age, but especially over 35, it's best to start with an absolutely great bag, and terrific shoes. We want the bag to stand alone. Look at some name brands and choose a neutral color: MJ

Here are some versatile shoes, good for walking: Delman
And some Boots

Remember, these are wardrobe builder basics! There are other ways to go, too.
Kate

Now, for wardrobe, classic upgrade leads us right to RL: Red Wrap
More Conservative

Ralph's World Ralph is at many stores, including Macy's, and at Ralph Lauren stores and sites. There are sales, discounts, and outlet stores that carry these items at lower prices, and remember that all looks can be copied at any price point, if needed.

Have Mom read over the Pres Method, and she's on her way!

Unfinished Outfit

HI pres,
I wonder if you could help me 'spruce up" this outfit. Click Here
I just feel that it needs something to make it "sing". Please note the top has an empire seam that is not that visible in the pick. Thanks!

You have a lot to work with! Just about any modern ensemble would flatter you.
But right now, your top is a bit skimpy-tight, the square neckline is filled with a small beaded circle, the hip line (hem of the top) is at your widest part, and the shoes aren't sending out any killer vibes, either! It's the basics, but it's not a finished ensemble.

We'll have to add some stuff! Let's start with a ruffled, or long cardi over the top, with a long Vee neck, and some long mixed bead chains. This will emphasize your terrific torso, instead of your hip line. Then, two bangles on the wrist, and some shoes with a Tee strap. A big clutch in a pop color.

Some examples:

A long cardigan
A long, mixed bead Necklace
A Belt in a Hot color (you have the shape for it!)
And some shoes with interest at the Ankle.


Let's see what you can come up with when you pile it on. More is More!

Orphan Pieces in the Storm

My biggest problem is creating perfect outfits. Although I can shop for single pieces, they often end up without ensembles. I'd like to shop for ensembles. Do you have any ideas for me? And, once I leave the store, how do I make outfits for the occasion, or the weather? I can do one, but not the other. Help!


The Pres Method to the rescue: Once you have that perfect top, bottom, or those shoes,

a) Ask the Sales Associate "What is being shown with this?" and let the designer do the work for you.

b) Walk the item around the store until the right mate sings to you. Try on (together!)

c) At home, take the item and hang it on your closet door. Then, hold up some likely pieces from your closet. Try on. If you hear singing, hang the items together.

d) Be sure that you are looking for the right pieces to begin with! The weather is a real headache for me, too. Many perfect outfits are sabotaged by the need to wear boots or a warm coat over (will the sleeves pull on?) Let's be realistic, and not fill the closet with clothes that don't work for your climate. I have to be careful about jackets, myself. They have a really short season; it's either too warm, too wet, or too cold. And jackets, with their shoulders, are quick to look dated, as well. So, it's just one jacket per season for me; cardis are more versatile, and for everything but a formal suit look, they do the trick. You may need another look for your climate.

To get some fun help with choosing outfits for your daily weather, look here:

The Feather Report

Gramma's Style

Hello, Pres. This is the first time I have written to you. My 20-something GD says that my look is good for me, since I am 60ish and a little stout. She says it suits my country life style. But I have have been longing for a jacket with a little more style, maybe with ruffles, and some great boots. She says that you will tell me to dump my old clothes and buy trendy items. She says my style is timeless, and I shouldn't follow fashion. Lots of my friends say that their style is timeless too. They tell me to buy pieces that will be high quality but last forever. Any Advice? My Style

Have you ever watched WNTW? There is a reason that it starts with a Trash Can.

There's no need, however, if you know how to shop ( See The Pres Method) to trash your whole wardrobe at any time. And, BTW, The Pres Method goes for a lean wardrobe of highest end pieces, as you may recall; with any look copyable at all price points. Also, I also never said to jump on all trends. Some folks aren't shaped for ruffles to add visual bulk. But don't automatically recoil from every new look, either. Ruffles can be worn around the wrists; or in narrow vertical stripes. They are quite adaptable for a fresh look. And, I would not buy a coat with ruffles. Instead, add a ruffled scarf.

But everything, highest end, or low, has an expiration date. There's no Style without Fashion; and Fashion moves on. Regularly. "Good Style" is passing. It doesn't matter if you're 20 or 60. No excuses for rural GMs. They can wear lovely things with a non-urban flare. These things don't have to be frumpy, no matter what the size or age of the wearer (For a lovely country look, see Ralph Lauren, Country Chic) Fashion is not the exclusive domain of the 20-something (quite the opposite, from what I've seen.)

Here's an absolutely highest end skirt (Chanel,2000) Gray wool, not trendy; conservative non-urban texture.
So Over Now. I'm not saying it wasn't worth the investment then. I have high end pieces that I have worn to shreds. But try living in the moment, not dreaming of what to wear a decade from now.

Forever Wear

I'm looking for some clothes that will last a long, long time. Do you have ideas about this?

There may be the occasional accent piece that will make a (brief) comeback as vintage, but usually, fashion moves on. Some pieces, like coats, raincoats, and some jackets, may be worth an investment, but others, like tops and shoes, really scoot along. I have a friend who prides herself on wearing only the best, but her pencils are too wide, her lapels are too short, and her toes are too pointy. There's a balance to maintain between investment and disposability, and only you can judge where your budget fits.

The best way to approach this is not to overbuy in any one season (avoid stocking up on multiples of an item in different colors.) Buy one good jacket, not two of the same. Then wear that jacket in many ways. Next season, add just one good jacket again, and dump the stuff from the back end of your closet.

Reading You

Hi Pres! I was reading you on WNTW, and I have decided to dump my old jackets. I am 59, and fit. I am big on diet and exercise. Since I moved to a country house, my old city clothes don't work so well. But I don't want to look like a frumpy GM, even though my 20 year old Granddaughter thinks that's the right look for me.
Can you find the jacket for this season for me? I have about $300 to spend. Thanks!


Hello GM! There's no need to give up on beauty and grace at any age. Some 20 year olds, with their light wash jeans over wide thighs, should know this. It is possible to be beautiful at 20, too! For you, in your rural environment, here's a new jacket for this season. Suede BF Be sure to look at the picture of the model sitting on the bench.
BTW, your GD, and your DD, if they are as fit as you are, can borrow this. Some clothing is ageless. But that clothing changes, so you are right to move on. Enjoy!

Whiskey Boots

Hi - I'm eying a pair of whiskey-colored knee-hi boots with a stacked leather heel and a fold-over cuff at the top. I'm a little heavy, so the tucked-in skinny jean is not my best look, so I'd like to wear these boots with skirts or dresses, but I'm a little concerned about the color. I can easily envision black or brown boots, but the lighter color has me stumped about what to wear with them. Any ideas?
Thanks!

You're going to be happy to hear that the best support color for Whiskey is Black. Your boots sound like they would be great with a black skirt or a black wrap dress. When you have the Black/Whiskey neutrals in place, add the pop of color, like Red, for the bag.
You can also rock the boat with a Leopard cardi at the top.