Jacket Stance?

What do you think about suggesting a larger busted woman wear a high-stance 3 button jacket like this:

High Stance

High Stance 2
instead of this:

Lower Stance ?


T&S, Danica Lo, and I believe the Lucky authors have all recommended against the former jackets because it can make the woman look boxy. From my own experience, I find this to be true also (regardless of whether there are princess seams) especially since I usually need to go up a size or two for those kinds of jackets. I also think that when buttoned, they create more space (merging the bust and stomach) instead of dividing the space like a woman with a large bust is supposed to do. Now, perhaps if the woman also has a tummy, then the three button jacket is a better option. I also think there are probably 3-button jackets that work for large busted women, but they aren't that easy to find. Am I deluded? Can a high-stance jacket work? If so, how?

Thanks, Siepres

The main idea is to break up the bust expanse as often as possible.
Any unbroken long swath of fabric is not as flattering as two (or three) areas of chest.

So, it depends on the coverage underneath the jacket, too. If there's a turtleneck (I know, I know, it's just to show the extreme
example) in a solid color from under the chin all the way down to a low button stance, that's one big area of one solid color. A higher stance would cut into that area. This same principle works for other unbroken shirts underneath, especially knits. And be very careful about the bosom protruding in the center (I see this everyday) while the sides are held back by the bra and the jacket.

For the famous lock&load look, which confines the bust behind a buttoned jacket, the jacket must have a broken-up front (something Clinton never explains.) This can be done with a seam in the cloth just below the bust, some shaping at a faux high waist, or even low pockets in the front. Sometimes, black buttons on a contrasting jacket provide the break, and a cut-away opening below the lowest button can show a peek of another color, usually dark, because no light gets in. I always wear my last jacket button open, to give this broken-up effect.

The best way to break up the look is by adding a third element, like a narrow folded scarf, or a vest, in another color, to peek out at the sides, and increase the number of color breaks that we have. A very thin cardi worn under an open jacket will have the same effect.

I have seen the L&L look ruined by a jacket with a very, very sharp break at the button, leaving a shelf of covered bosom protruding above. The cloth should not emphasize the bosom, just the opposite (in this case.) Although we want to show a torso, "faux" or not, we want to create those breaks in expanse at just the right spots, not the wrong one.

Of course, this all takes hours of trying on, trying with shirts, etc.
Whew.

siepres, i would wear the third option, hands down. the lower the
neckline the better for me. i like to wear buttondowns opened up on
the top and the other jackets would not allow me to do that.
Ileana



Ili has the right idea here; she intuitively likes to wear her button front shirt open on top. That creates three more broken-up spaces (skin at neckline, two sides of the shirt.)


Pres, thank you so much for that explanation! I bought a brown tweed
jacket about 3 years ago (before I started dressing more for my body),
and I was shocked how in pictures I looked way heavier/flatter than I
was. When I went suit shopping back in Feb. I tried on many many
jackets, and all of the high-stance jackets just didn't work very well
for me, but I was able to find jacket after jacket that looked
beautiful if the stance was lower. It wasn't until you were
explaining about "breaking up the space" in one post that I put two
and two together.

This is a great topic for Sostyled, because I can
guarantee that many people were just as confused about the "lock and
load" policy as I was!

Thanks again,
Siepres

Pencils and Boots and Shoes

I've been wearing pencil skirts to work all summer with 3 to 3 1/2
inch heels, which are horribly uncomfortable, but make my legs look
fabulous :0) I want to transition my pencil skirts to fall, and I'm
unsure of the best way. I have two pair of leather, pointy-toe boots
(one black, one brown), and have tried them on with my pencil skirts,
but I'm unsure if it looks okay or not. The boots come to just below
my knee, the skirts hit right at my knee.

I'm also not sure if these skirts will work if I pair them with tights
and just the heels I've been wearing and/or with the boots.

Here's a link to the skirt (I have this in black, grey and brown):
Pencil

The heels I have have a round toe. One pair is a black and white
check with a pompom on the front, the other pair is brown with a few
suble hints of really light green and almost a pinkish color mixed
in. I can't find links to them right now. The colors aren't very
obvious.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

I think the issue is not so much the length of the skirt/height of the
boots. The important proportion is the width of the boots. If they are bulky, and there's a big wide open cuff at the top, the look will be off (narrow skirt, then wide legs.) If the boots are sleek, however, the look should work with a slim skirt.
About the heels, I guess they should work with tights unless the B&W/ Pompoms are summery?



Here are some thoughts from the team:

Min: I'm with you Pres. If the boots are close to the leg they'll look fine. I actually like that look myself. I would assume the heels will look fine with tights but without seeing the shoes, or knowing more about how they look, it's hard to say for sure.
The only heels I have that I don't think work with tights are my summer ones and they don't get worn in tights weather anyway.


Siepres: Ditto Pres. If the boots are nice and sleek, it can also be fun to experiment with playful tights peeping out at the knee. I can't imagine why tights wouldn't work with that pencil skirt (since it's so basic), but if anything seems off, then it's probably the weight ofthe shoe is too summery. Some shoes just do not transition from season to season.


Michelle: I will often pair my pencil with these sleek boots and it looks great.
Granted, I have very long legs so there is a definite break between the bottom of the skirt and the start of the boot for a bright tights to be seen.

ileana : i have worn boots to below the knee with corduroy pencil skirts thatare lower than knee-length or (in the past) above the knee. my suggestion would be for her to take photos of how it looks, it is difficult to advise whether it works without seeing the outfit in question. On the link of the skirt provided it shows the skirt above the knee. if it is above the knee then the tights would look good, and more fall/winter appropiate than a shorter skirt and boots without coverage, especially if you live in a colder climate. the right fall shoe is imperative for the tights and pencil skirtcombo for the season. unless the shoes are dark (and say, patent leather) it is hard to find, as siepres mentioned, a multi-seasonshoe. either the color, the material/fabric or look can be out of place, compromising the overall look, and taking it from homerun to 'close but no cigar'.

Patterned Tights

Okay, I just love these argyle tights but I'm not sure how to wear
them. Here's what I thought, please chime in.

The graphite/heather ones with a grey skirt and mustard yellow shoes.
Either my grey pinstrip pencil or for a 'kick' with my grey suit.
Top?

Tights

I also like the black ones and would love to wear them with my black
shootie/booties with a black skirt. I don't know what color top, red
would be too expected I think.

As long as I'm asking for help...would you/should you wear a patterned
tight with a patterned skirt or dress? I have some lovely black
tights with patterns (grey med sized polka dots, grey checkerboard)
that I hesitate to wear as I'm never sure if I'm setting up competing
patterns
This is similar in tone (but not pattern) to the patterned tights I struggle
with. Pattern



I love your tights. For the argyle, try a white shirt, the gray skirt,
and a black shell over that. The all neutral outfit is well served by
the bold tights.
Shell
( In the JCrew Catalogue, it's styled beautifully, in black, over a white shirt and white skirt! )

I Love my patterned tights more than my solids. I have black on black plaid, stripes, and a faux fishnet look; (black lines on a gray background, they reverse to gray lines on a black background.) The key to mixing patterns is to keep the colors in the same neutral category. That will give you free range with the patterns. I even wear the subtle patterns with a large B&W houndstooth pattern skirt (and solid shoes.)

In my bedroom, I have 7 patterns in view just now. The reason that this works is that the colors of the patterns all coordinate. The same principle works for clothes: the patterns will work together if the colors work. If you are nervous (I'm getting that vibe, LOL.) keep the colors in the patterns the same.

Basic patterns like herringbone, houndstooth, pinstripes, tweeds, are all compatible if the colors are the same, or in coordinating neutrals; then add that pop of color in an accent piece, like a bag or the aforementioned shell.

Need a Fashion Boost

My wardrobe is a little dull. What can I do in a hurry (and not too expensive)
I have a gray wool pencil, and a white shirt.

Sounds like you have some good basics there. Add purple tights, some black patent structured low profile flats, a longish cardi, and a narrow belt over. Find a bead shop and get beads in a variety of jewel tones. Make three short strands, not one long thin necklace, and twist them up; wear them inside the collar of the shirt.

If you have a suit jacket for that skirt, or a pin stripe suit jacket, wear a neutral cami plus an unbuttoned brightly colored cardi under. Keep the jacket open so that the sweater is partially visible. Purple is good, but switch out the tights to gray, or another neutral, like chocolate.

Boot Proportions

Hey Pres,
I need some ideas of how to wear my favorite flat, black boots. If my skirt is shorter than the boots, then do I add in black tights? How do I coordinate with a pencil skirt? Not too sure of the right proportions.

Thanks


Proportion is all. You may certainly add black tights, but they are not the only option just now. There are Purple tights, Grays, Faux Fishnets, Black on Black Stripes, and even Black based plaids. Don't miss out on such great accessories.

A pencil works best with a hem above, or just at, the knee. Some folks can carry a narrow pencil with a mid calf hem, but it takes a very long leg, and should be balanced with a contrasting long jacket (preferably in tweed.)


The height of the boots is as important as the length of the skirt in getting the proportion just right. There's a flat boot that ends well below the knee, in a matte leather, that really can't support anything but a mini skirt. Or pants.

Booties, which end somewhere above the ankle, have recently become very hot with skirts, especially the short pencil, and, if the proportion works for you, with contrasting tights.

Just One Coat

A little background about me: I am a SAHM mom of 2 infants, 31yrs, 5'
2" 102 pounds. Everyone calls me tiny. I am definitely a Petite.

I live in Central TX so it is cold only 4 months (Dec - March). I want
a coat that I can wear everywhere; just one, since its not that cold
here. If I was to buy just one what do you suggest?
Thanks in Advance.


If I could choose only one coat for a young Mom, this would be my favorite: Machine Wash

I asked some experienced Petite advisors from warmer climates, and they added:

Ili: I love this coat. Buttons (I have it in navy). I get compliments every time I wear it and it works fantastically here in Arizona.

It's a 'wear it and go', easy, comfy yet chic. Here's another I would love for this year. The cut is sublime, and the
classic shape should make it wearable for more than one season. Classic

Halfpint:I have a coat similar to the first one Ili posted. It's lightweight black brocade with three big buttons and had the same seaming and shape as Ili's. It's fine for 98% of the weather here in Atlanta, which is probably similar to the weather in central Texas. I actually wore it today to work and received several compliments.

Stuck in A Rut

Hi there,
I'm hoping you can help... I am 34, just had my second child and I still have clothes from college in my closet! I still tend to end up in the juniors section of department stores. I want to dress more my age but truly don't know how. I just started my own company in July and really would like to feel more confident about my look... Can you help? I am 5'6" and average, but muscular in build.
Thanks in advance!


Having the right look will certainly help to advance your company. And Juniors isn't it.
The Pres Method teaches you how to assemble a perfect wardrobe, one outfit at a time, but it sounds like you need some preparatory education. Try these steps to educate your eye:

1) Check out Lucky magazine. This publication has features which use real folks (mostly magazine staffers) as models, and shows the real looks that work for them. You don't need a full subscription; start with just an edition or two, and visit their website. Look for a model who resembles you, in coloring or basic shape, and see what works for her. Lucky is the most practical of fashion magazines.

2) Visit the websites of Fashion stores: Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, and Bloomingdales. Here too, pick a model who resembles you and see what's been chosen for her to wear. These choices aren't random. Keep a log of styles that you should look for.

3) Watch the Runway shows (Ready to Wear) for Fall 2008 on the Elle website. Watch a few shows every season as they come up, to get a feel for the new styles. Fashion is a moving target. It's not necessary to watch the whole procession, just pick one that interests you, and then pursue that one. Remember that the designers are angling for free publicity, and they show items that are fantasy-based in hopes of attracting the press. Don't let that distract you from the beautiful ensembles.

4) Try for one perfect outfit at first. No random accumulation of tops and bottoms from the Junior section. Start with the part that's hardest for you to fit, and find the coordinating piece to go with it. Always ask for, and check out, the pieces that the designer has shown together.

5) Upgrade the successful, comfortable pieces that you have. If you usually wear a Tee shirt, replace that with a woven silk or cotton Tee with embellishment. Replace faded light wash jeans with dark wash jeans that are perfectly hemmed, and swap out your sneakers for a cute low profile flat or Wedge in a nice material, like suede or patent.

Good Luck!

Clingy Tees

I always have trouble finding tees that work for my body. I often
need more casual and washable shirts to wear to work (I am a teacher).
I do have a larger bust and it is difficult to find shirts that do not
cling to either my bust or my stomach (creating an unflattering roll).
Are there any "magic" fabrics I should be looking for?
Thanks!

This is a Question for The SOS Dream Team. And here are the replies:

Siepres:
I have to admit that I avoid tee shirts. It can be hard to find one
that fits the bust and waist properly. I usually opt for casual knit
shirts instead or something with more structure. When I do wear a tee shirt, I make sure the bra is right, and the pants fit properly. If the "unflattering roll" is muffin top, then the pants are just too tight and is going to cause a problem with any shirt.

This is an example of a "tee" shirt that I might wear:

Tee

I also find that a shirt with a pattern is good too because the pattern not only minimizes a large bust but the detailing can disguise any bumps on the tummy.

Ileana:
ayyy, me too...all my blouses are buttondowns, either long or short
sleeved.
:(
my only contribution is to say that those with a lot of stretch can be
a double-edged sword, as they can have a 'life of their own' and roll
up or down when they're snug or pulled down tightly.
like the famous line on 'Are You Being Served?'...'They ride up with
wear'...
;)

CherylB:
I have a few fine gauge knit sweaters that are a silk/cotton/spandex
blend and are washable on delicate. I do have to dry them flat but I
love them and they are worth the effort. The don't cling or lose
their shape and wear well. I also find that they don't fade like pure
cotton. I have also had good luck with the v-neck t-shirts from The
Gap. They fit well through the mid-section without clinging and also launder well.

Gelinda:
For very hot summer weather and really casual outfits I buy a few
mostly cotton Ts from places like Avenue and Catherine's. These are
plus sizes because I can't stand a tight fit across an already
prominent bosom, but I know other chain stores make them in smaller sizes. They now come in shaped styles so they do not hang out and away from the bust to the hem. The fabric keeps them from clinging too much. The downside is that this fabric does not keep its color and newness at all. A few machine washings and they are ready for cleaning the basement. I buy them in a few colors when they are deeply discounted. Their life can be extended by careful washing in cold water, etc., but if you are going to take that much trouble I'd go for better quality and longer lasting pieces.

I have some higher quality T type tops that need hand washing but take only a swish through the suds and rinse and they hang dry perfectly overnight. They keep their color and look new much longer.

Another tip for buying this kind of item for busty women - look VERY carefully in the mirror from all angles when you try on. If the fabric is thin and fine you may find yourself revealing the details of yourbra, or worse, your anatomy. Be especially careful about the color of the bra under since where the fabric is stretched the most, you may see glimpses of a contrasting color!

Fashion Challenge

I have a unique fashion challenge. In the past 3 years I have become confined to a wheelchair and have gained over 140 lbs due to multiple health problems. PLEASE HELP!! I am a 45 year old woman whose weight has doubled and I sit all the time. Can someone please help me with fashion tips to help me look more slender and fashion forward in a sitting position. I don't know the first thing about slimming fashions or what would work for a sitting position.

There are a few good tips for slimming looks that are universally flattering:
a) Wear a bright/light tee shirt or cami and layer a much darker, very thin sweater over, leaving a V-shaped opening on your chest. The dark "sides" will recede, giving you a slimmer look. Another way to do this is to layer a very narrow flat scarf on either side of a deep vee tee (loop around the back of the neck. Not too long) and place a jacket over that, so that the vee is surrounded by dark scarf, then jacket on either side.
b) Get the proper bra! This will require a fitting. Placing the bosom up where it belongs will do wonders.
c) Sleeves that end at the elbow are better than short sleeves, because of the horizontal line that short sleeves create.
d) Look for crisp fabrics that define straight lines, instead of the rolls that clinging knits produce.

Since you are seated, take some hints from TV anchorwomen:
a) Red, turquoise, on top (for that visible vee!)
b) Careful eye make-up! False eyelashes, arched, neatly defined eyebrows.
c) Interesting necklaces that fill in the collar of your shirt and don't dangle down to your bust.
d) Look for shoulder detail in your shirts, like ruching.
e) Jackets are great for you. Look for short jackets (very in just now) that end at the waist.

Keep your pants neutral (like black twill) and keep those bold patterns up top (like houndstooth and animal prints.) A deep red bomber jacket with a leopard print collar, black pants& flats is dynamite for you.
Don't forget to build a collection of accessories, like chunky bracelets and bright scarves.

Here's a sweater to help define a thinner looking column Wear it Tied.

Color Hose

Hi! I am going to a morning wedding with brunch to follow. My skirt is a lightweight corduroy, black background with white pin-dots, the shoes are a 3 inch light turquoise pump. What colour hose to wear??? Help..the wedding is in 2 days! Thanks!


Those shoes sound great. Your best options are micro fishnets in several colors. It's helpful to match the hose to the colors of the skirt or the shoes. We have black, and white, in the skirt, and turquoise for the shoes. White isn't a credible option. Black would work, but sounds heavy, in sheers or opaque tights, for an AM wedding. Turquoise (or a similar shade of blue) in a sheer or the fishnet would be smashing. Black, or fleshtone, micro fishnets would work, as well. Carry a structured bag in black patent, not a soft leather hobo; your corduroy skirt needs the crisp accessory.

Tights

Shirt Fit

Size-wise, I am a 00, very slim 5'3" small bust. I am too slim to fit into fitted clothing (not stretchy) at the usual stores. This makes finding fitted dress shirts a particular hassle. Pants and Skirts can always be fixed/hemmed, but shirts are another matter. I am not as curvy as your usual petite size, any suggestions for a store/brand that makes shirts that are a slimmer fit?


No one can find shirts that fit. Consider the job: shoulders, size (and position) of bust, width of back, position of waist, set of arm holes, torso width, and length. Before our current fitted look, shirts were boxier (and cinched in by tucking) but we now want perfect fit for each of us. Sometimes, this requires the addition of princess seams by a tailor, and in the opposite cases, shirts can be worn open, with a cami under, so that there is a visible waist, but ample room for the bust.

But don't despair. First, look for shirts with styles that are easier for you to wear, like ruched fronts.

For very slim fit items, look at the high end stores (expensive, but good tailoring.)
Their extra-small really means business. Craig

And always look for Slim Fit.

These ultra slim sizes are often long, however, so you may have to shorten the hem. But we all do. You can try adding a scoop neck tank sweater, or a menswear vest, over the shirt, to pull it in. The vests can often be adjusted by a small belt on the back.

Perfect Conservative Pantsuit

Pres, I recently bought a perfect pantsuit for work. I work in a
conservative field and need something that does not stand out too
much. But, now I want to add my stamp with a top, jewelry and shoes.
I have high heel oxfords and black patent boots that I think will
work. Any other color ideas or suggestions that are elegant?




I'm thinking of a deep purple shirt and a gray sleeveless sweater to go with your classic suit. Silver jewelry. Also, I asked a few friends for more ideas:

Siepres: My mother says that a great way to add flair to a conservative suit or business casual outfit is to wear a broach or a pin, usually on the jacket lapel. Not only does the pin give you some freedom of expression, but as an added bonus, people perceive you to be more creative and detail-oriented for taking the time to select a pin for your jacket.

cmt: I am a fan of great necklaces. In fact, I am known for the unique necklaces that I pick up during my travels. They can make a boring suit a lot less boring! And, of course, a pair of killer heels is essential!

ileana: I'm seeing a lot of nice, saturated teal, conservative and elegant. (I wish I knew the color of the pantsuit, but since I don't, I'm going to go all over the map!) She needs to be conservative, so I will skip the usual "lucite for fall" that I love, and instead suggest that she gets creative with the many cool-shaped, unusual belts that are out there. For example, I'm crazy about the rosette one from JCrew, which i find (since it 'goes', not 'matches') that I can wear with a variety of colors. For shoes, suede and interesting neutral color-block pumps are also popular this fall, but I don't know if it would be too much (although
she did say she wanted to stamp it her own with accessories, so there you have it~) Hey, this is fun!
I feel like one of the interns and you, Pres, you are House. *grin*

CheryleB : I like to add a silk satin blouse in a feminine color like lavender to a suit that is fairly formal (black, grey, etc). I like contrast of the femininity with the masculinity of the tailored suit.

Boots for Wide Calves

I love the look of knee high boots, but I have a hard time fitting my
calves; they are on the large side...any advice on styles for best
fit?

Here's a reply, with help from Joanne and Siepres:

For wider calves, you may think that midcalf boots or booties are a definite "no," because they chop the leg in half at the fullest part, or shorten the leg. However, a fantastic style for wide calves is a pair of very flat knee high boots with no heel at all, and a slouchy shaft above.

Mid-calf boots can also work if you buy them in a "flesh tone" color. A pair of high-heel wedges in a suede close to your skin-tone will lengthened the line of your leg without highlighting width.

Try a pair of killer dark red mid calf boots, with a spike heel, but wear them with pants, not skirts. Most of us have some shoes that are for pants only.

When looking for fit in a wide calf boot, be careful about how the shoe fits at the ankle. If your ankles are very narrow, then the boot may lose its shape in that area and inadvertently give you cankles. However, since the proper boot will
camouflage the wider calves, many styles will work, leaving room to show personality.

Knee high boots are great for elongating and slimming the leg, but if you need a wide-calf boot, there's a more limited (affordable) selection available. As a word of caution, many of the "wide" boots tend to be very plain and basic in more affordable price range. Sometimes they even look a tad dated, so when looking, focus on finding a modern design.