How to Wear Heels from Guest Blogger Ili

Hey! What about us Heels Girls?

The other day I read a quote from (don't laugh) Nicole Ritchie, who,
when asked about her style, said: "I like comfortable, and for me that
means 6 inch heels."

We all have different pain thresholds and comfort zones, but there is
something to be said about getting your foot acclimated to a heel. I
speak from experience. Wearing them a little throughout the day,
even if you have a backup pair for when things get bad, is
important. Try practicing regularly, instead of wearing them for only 8
hours twice a month for a special activity.

Find a pair with good soft leather, and no little straps that dig into the skin
(slingbacks are my most comfy, but that's just me) and start out
wearing them for 3 hours, for example. Do that for a few days, and then
increase in half-hour increments. If heels are not worn on a
regular basis they're never going to feel comfortable. I find flats
intolerable for the most part. (And for the most part, there is only
one pair that I like, my leather gladiator sandals)

A seasoned heels-wearer like me knows things
about wearing heels:

1. Don't take off your shoes. Your feet will swell; and when you put your
feet back into the shoes, you will feel it. This is especially true
during traveling.

2. Don't go on a salty food binge. 30 minutes after I have had a high-
sodium-anything (like a Bloody Mary) my feet and hands swell. Go back
to rule number one here: Never take off your shoes when your feet swell!

3. There are different feels when you first put on a shoe at a store.
Some are obvious no-brainers: if you can't take 10 steps with them
on, take them off. Some shoes, however, only get better as you wear them.
Note which of yours were like this, so you can see a pattern: Is it a certain
style? (like for me, slingbacks); or is it the material? (for me, good
quality leather.)

4. Train train train your feet. Just as we can't decide to run 5
miles on the first day of a regimen, and expect to get away without
pain, we shouldn't demand from our feet, or from a pair of shoes,
that everything will be instantly comfortable if the foot hasn't been
properly conditioned.

5. The correct fit is imperative. Make sure that the shoe isn't too big, too small or too narrow.

Quiz tomorrow!

Ili, SOS Guest Blogger

How to Wear Flats

I was considering buying a cute pair of flats this
Fall and I need to know how to
incorporate them well into outfits.



I do a lot of walking, and even in my office, there are times when I am on my feet without a break for 5 hours straight. Then I do a long walk on the commute after. So, I can do a 2 1/2 inch heel pretty well, nothing higher. A 3 inch wedge is not for that sort of work day. If I am wearing flats, I fly through the day.

A few pointers:
Use flats for a cute unexpected look. The heels (especially 2 inches heights) are more expected, and more conservative. I have trouble finding really snappy heels at that height. 3's are easy; 2 not so much out there. Embellished flats, with their widely available fashionable looks, can do the trick instead.

Flats are especially good for thin legs that don't need the calf boost, and for folks who are pretty tall, with a narrow vertical axis, and don't need the height boost.

I have 1/2 inch of heel added to all my flat flats by the shoemaker. He shapes the additional heel perfectly to the one on the shoe (even heart shaped heels.) And I add a 1/2 inch heel insert wedge inside. That's one inch additional leg length. You can have rubber bottoms put onto casual flats for a good boost, too.

Wear very low profile flats to elongate the look of the leg. No big round clumsy toe boxes! For work outfits, look for flats that have the same fronts as heels. Like these cuties: Patent

Don't wear flats with long (below knee) or full skirts. The knee length skirt, but no longer, leaves enough visible leg to mimic the longer-legged illusion of heels. Boots with flat or low heels can support longer, fuller skirts, if the proportions are right.

With a real Mini, (fully exposing the knee and a good deal of thigh) flats are the best shoes. I love flats with a short bubble hem skirt.

Don't wear flats with a formal skirted suit. These classic ensembles require "suit heels."

When wearing tights, try matching them to the flats. Black, with black patent flats, is a staple, and elongates the leg as well.

Autumn in Pastels

For the last two months, my Harper's Bazaar keeps trying to tell me
that pastels, like baby blue and coral, are going to be big colors
this fall/winter. I'm having a really hard time with this because the
stuff they're showcasing always says "SPRING!" to me. Have any of you
seen this elsewhere? What do you ladies think about wearing a pastel
outfit when it's 40 degrees outside?



I checked out the Harper's article on-line. These updated Fall "pastels" aren't our old pastels (they never are.) They are grays, with a tinge of pastel shade added. Still unusual for Fall, but not the same as Spring colors.
Light Colors

And note the avant garde shapes of these coats. Not our old coats.

Lavender is one of my better colors, but I never wear it in the Fall. Oddly enough, saturated Lavender looks great in the iciest time of winter, with Black. I usually break it out with a Black suit around Valentine's Day.

The usual recommendations apply: If you want to try these new pastels, go for a smaller winter item, like gloves or a scarf. I would love Lavender gloves, hmm....
Don't think this means that traditional spring colors/ clothes will work in November. Not in wintery climes.

Beach Wedding

Pres - My sister and her fiance will be married next May in an outdoor Mexican ceremony with approximately 50 guests. He does not want to wear a suit but, of course, she dreams of some sort of wedding dress. Sis is 40 but has a stunning figure. Do you have any suggestions for them?


Absolutely. Every bride should have a wedding dress. Age and location, even the the number of previous marriages, don't negate the special status that she has on that day. Choosing the dress that's appropriate for the venue doesn't mean giving up any dreams. I recommend a lacy dress for her, and there are many out there just now.
Here's a short one that's chic:
Betsey
This one goes with flat white thong sandals.

And here's a more conservative take on it: Tadashi Dress I like the shoes shown, and the fit.

A white summer dress with a wide skirt would work, too. Nordstrom has quite a few of this type. (A Jackie shift dress? A wrap top?) There's a classic white summer dress known as a Mexican Wedding dress that she should research, too. They often have tiers, with lacy insets. More of these will show up when the Resort Collections appear (around December.)

She could pin a few white flowers in her hair.

For the groom, I don't suppose he would consider a white suit, hmm? Ok, maybe not. How about a white sports jacket with a shawl collar? If he insists on no jacket, have him tuck in a white linen shirt, which should be big enough to billow a little just above the belt. Sharp navy blue slacks and nice loafers.

Congratulations on your family's happy event!

Outfits

Hey Pres, Love your site. I am almost 42 and have been working on my personal style the last 2 years. I feel like I have lots of good pieces in my closet, but since I have not bought outfits in the past, I struggle with how to put things together. What is a good method for putting together outfits and do you ever take pictures for future reference?


Thank you! I don't use photographs myself, but I have friends who do. I don't need them because my wardrobe of wearable items isn't extensive. Although I have some clothes that I save for the next season, my actual closet is very small, and holds items that are wearable now only. Mostly, I wear the new stuff, and not a lot of that. That's how I am able to move on regularly. And, since I wear the good outfits almost immediately upon assembling them, I don't need a memory log. What I see is what I wear.

About creating ensembles, try The Pres Method in your closet. Sort by season first, and put all out of season clothes away. Put all current skirts in one place, and all pants. All tops go in in a different area. Try on the best pair of pants/or skirt. Find the shoes that are the correct height. Now try the tops, seeing what ends at the right spot on your hip and has the best fitting shoulders and waist. You'll be surprised what you can do with a few pieces that fit properly. Try on some outerwear, and see if the collars are compatible, the hems work, and the sleeves fit over the top. Try all your coats and jackets this way.

Once you have the fabric items and shoes, look through your jewelry collection, and go for pieces that are large enough to make a visual impact. Anything skimpy, pale, or delicate should be shelved.

Now, look for a bag that stands alone. The bag should be stunning on its own. Don't try to match the color to anything in the outfit, except need. (For a gym outfit, you need a gym bag. For evening, a clutch.)

Today's non-matching makes clothes more versatile. Look for items that support each other with the proper weight and cut, and you'll be racing out the door in them in no time. You don't forget the good stuff.

Tinted Hose

I need suggestions on the right color hose to wear to an evening wedding with an espresso brown cocktail dress and wine colored patent leather shoes. The dress has a little gold beading so I am debating between a sheer glimmer gold, sheer brown or even burgundy. Any ideas?

Don't echo the gold in the stockings. However, matching the tint of the hose to the skirt or the shoes is excellent, especially for a dressy occasion. Try them and see. For this lovely outfit, I vote for the Burgundy. Carry a matte black satin clutch. You weren't thinking of gold, right? :)

UK Events Interview

Hi, I'm going for a job interview for a job with an event management team in London and really need your advice. I would love an outfit that looks fashionable but also shows a bit of individuality. What kind of items would you suggest? Please reply asap because my interview is on Thursday.

For an interview, wear a suit! Since you are looking for a job in events management, I'd go for one with a modern look.
Ruched Jacket

They're easy to find right now.
The jacket alone, even in this conservative color, will show your individuality. And, both pieces will work well for work, too.
If the events that you manage are trendy, evening extravaganzas, once you are hired, you can dress this up with a sexy top and very high heels.
For the interview, I'd stick with a closed top in a deep jewel tone, and some nice pumps.
The new jacket, a pencil skirt that fits well, the jewel top, a neat bag, pumps, slick hair and careful makeup should set the tone for your interview.

Good Luck!

The Right Accessories

Accessories are not my friend.

I dread trying to put necklaces with
outfits. I'm okay with earrings and don't wear bracelets at all. Ever.

Color is hard for me, especially picking out the right ones to 'pop' an
outfit or one that coordinates, but doesn't match.

Today, I wore grey pants, dark blue tank, blue and white floral print wrap top (needed the tank as it's too low for work otherwise) and a pair of yellow heels. It seemed to work, several folks complimented me and no one seemed to be staring with that "WHAT is she wearing?" look. The downside was I had no idea what necklaceto wear and after about 10 minutes (and trying options) gave up and went without.

I think I did color, pattern, and texture right, but it could have
been great with the right accessories.


I don't think that you needed the necklace.

The neckline, with a blue tank showing, and a floral patterned top in a wrap shape (with crisscross lines, and the vee) sounds like a lot around the collarbones. Maybe a small pendant (like a simple bead) that fits in the hollow of the neck, but nothing that has projection or hangs lower on the chest.

Try to find a few lucite, wood, or metal solid bracelets. They would go with just about any outfit (especially the one that you described.) If you pair two of them, you'll get compliments, believe me. They should be almost one inch in width. Bracelets

Halfpint & The Pseudo Neutrals

I’ve heard Stacy and Clinton talk about pseudo-neutrals. What are they and how are they different from neutrals?



PNs are items that aren't true neutrals like Black, White, Gray, and
Beige, but may still serve as good background support for bright colors. These include Denim, Fine Pinstripes, muted Glen Plaid, and Tweeds. Some other patterns are as good as neutrals, too; like animal prints that are made up of neutral colors, such as cheetah and leopard.

Colors that aren't true neutrals, but that can support many other colors, are Eggplant, Olive Green, and some Reds, like Merlot and Burgundy. Textures affect the ability of items to serve as neutrals, as well. Shoes in patent leather are more neutral than matte leather (because they support more types of ensembles); and croco print leather items, like belts and shoes, are very versatile as well. If you can grasp the concept of pseudo neutrals, this may free you from being stuck with black, brown, navy, and their venerable counterparts, for your basic pieces.

Halfpint and The Tricky Item, Part II

Now that I have set the tone, ahem, here are some more specific answers to Halfpint's questions.


If I have a neutral pattern (b/w for instance) in a skirt, is that a Tricky Item? If so, then should the top then be in a neutral, or can it be in a color?

It depends. A small B&W check looks a lot like gray. A large B&W floral is a bolder look. Both of those can support a certain group of saturated colors. These colors are seen in fairly new items only. You can add the new bright red to these, but I'd be careful with a large B/W houndstooth, plus red. Can be done, but many factors need to be taken into account. Can you carry this off? A tall blonde in a B/W houndstooth coat, black suede boots? Bright Red Scarf is excellent. For a petite brunette, small houndstooth pattern topper, black shift dress under; tan or neutral metallic (pewter) shoes; sharp red clutch.

If I have a pattern on bottom and color on top, can yet another color be introduced in the accessories?

Neutrals are your best friends here.

What if the pattern had b/w and another color, say red? Should the top be in one of those three colors? I’ve always thought that a color in a pattern should be repeated somewhere else in the outfit. Is this outdated or still a good rule of thumb?

Outdated. Bigtime. Fill in the top with a saturated neutral (tan) instead. You may echo a neutral (like white) but not for all the other components. Just one. Confusing, isn't it?

The Unmatched Look and How to Get It Right

I recently got a job as a paralegal for a local law firm, so I have been really working hard on updating my look and wearing appropriate clothing and accessories. I have been watching WNTW for tips but am very confused about what "goes" together as opposed to just what "matches". I have heard Stacy and Clinton refer to things that "go" together being different than what "matches". What color palettes go together and what patterns go together. I know bold jewelry is a must and I have a ton of it but I sometimes get lost on what color combos are okay and what is not. I am just lost so any help would be great!!! Thanks!



Congratulations on your new job!
Coordinating (finding things that go together) is much harder than matching. It's sophisticated and up-to-date, too. Matching is out of style just now.

But the unmatched outfit isn't one that's randomly thrown together, either. The type of colors, their saturation, the textures, the fabrics, the seasonal effect, and the occasion that you are dressing for, all figure into the mix. For beginners, you might look for "what a designer is showing" with an outfit. When I first started out shopping for myself, I copied entire outfits from Fashion store windows. This still works, and you don't have to use the exact pieces, either (you can copy them at any price point.)

To branch out on your own, first try to master the definitions of neutrals. Neutrals can be easily mixed. If you will sort your outfits into neutral base categories (a gray/ midnight navy outfit, for example) you can learn to add accent colors (that combo will support Yellow in the Spring, and Red in the Fall.)

For a very easy base to work with, try a sheath/shift dress in a neutral (Black, Beige, Brown.) The shift dress has no buttons in the front, a plain neckline and a straight skirt)

Assemble the accessories needed to vary the look.
Start with the one Tricky Item: A red bag? A Zebra print cardi? A very bright print scarf?
Then use neutrals to finish the outfit (Tan croco pumps? A Gray jacket?)

Add some chunky jewelry, and you are ready to go.

Most of the mixing mistakes that folks make aren't color or pattern based at all.
Pitfalls to avoid are:
Mixing the wrong seasons: Be sure that your whole outfit (especially for work) is season appropriate. This requires moving last season's favorite out of your rotation. Dressing for the wrong season is very unprofessional.
Mixing the wrong genres: Don't wear hiking shoes with a pencil skirt. No matter how comfortable they are. They are for the country.
Mixing the wrong occasions: Don't wear a chiffon evening top to work. A business suit looks silly at a barbeque.

Overdoing a Genre: If you like a distinctive ethnic look ( ie, embroidery, or original tribal patterns) keep this to only one item in your outfit. Don't wear an ethnic pattern skirt, cloth flats, and beaded jewelry. Handmade articles that you have picked up on vacation should be limited to one item per ensemble only.

If you are totally unsure of how to mix colors, look for a beautiful multicolored scarf from a designer's current collection. Pick the colors of the scarf for your outfit. Then, leave the scarf at home. (You can wear it with an all neutral ensemble on another day.)

Halfpint and The Tricky Item, Part I

Pres,

You do such a great service to those of us who are still learning and even those who just love to talk fashion/style. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, love of fashion, good humor and patience with those of us who are struggling. I’ve already learned a lot and despite my Southern upbringing and strict “rules” for proper dressing, I’m beginning to see fashion and style in a completely different light. Non-matching is something that is still new to my eye. Typically, I’ll put a neutral bottom and shoe with a top in a nice color and then a second color jacket, necklace or bracelet. That’s as far as I can go.
My thoughts and therefore my questions may be disjointed. But here’s what I’m trying to figure out:

If I have a neutral pattern (b/w for instance) in a skirt, is that a Tricky Item? If so, then should the top then be in a neutral, or can it be in a color? If I have a pattern on bottom and color on top, can yet another color be introduced in the accessories? What if the pattern had b/w and another color, say red? Should the top be in one of those three colors? I’ve always thought that a color in a pattern should be repeated somewhere else in the outfit. Is this outdated or still a good rule of thumb?

What’s considered a Tricky Item? Is a pattern –in neutral or non-neutral colors? Or is a color? Or maybe shape? I’ve always thought that it could be any of those things. So, I’ve never put a pattern with a different color, thinking that I would then have two Tricky Items in one outfit.

I’ve heard Stacy and Clinton talk about pseudo-neutrals. What are they and how are they different from neutrals?

Sorry for the jumble of questions, but one thought flows into another and that’s when I stand in the store frozen with doubt. Please feel free to use any part of this for SOS, or just hit Delete and run the other way! :- )

Best regards,
Halfpint


The "rules" have really changed recently, so I'm not surprised at your questions!
I'll give them a try, but it will take me a few posts.

I started to talk about color "weights" on WNTW a while ago, and it's a tough topic to explain. The colors that can support each other have similar saturation levels, and the textures of the cloth are similar. The new mix requires the new colors, and the new fabrics. If you have a venerable suit, continue to wear it as an ensemble with a neutral blouse, as always. Don't try mixing it up for the new look. And be sure to be attentive to seasonal clothes; don't mix an obvious summer item with a winter ensemble.

Starting with the basics, find a few neutrals for background colors for your outfits. A really good one this season is gray. Don't worry about gray being unflattering to you; it's great for a skirt or pants, where the color does not appear near your face and neck. Other good neutrals are black, midnight navy (not bright navy!), and tones of brown (khaki, tan, ecru.) Assemble all your neutrals in one area. Neutral pieces could include a shirt dress, narrow skirts, knitted tops with wrap, scoop or vee necks. Some folks keep all their bottoms neutral and wear prints in tops only, and others wear print skirts only, to simplify things. This is a good policy for beginners.

Base your perfect outfits on a neutral. I have Black, Gray, Brown or White (for summer) in my mind when I decide on an outfit.
Is this a Black outfit? A Brown one? Once I decide, and pick the defining piece (the skirt?) and the pieces on the vertical line of that (the top); I work my way out to the periphery.

Out there in the periphery are the accessories, like shoes and bags. If I have picked a shirt with a bright print to go with my basic neutral piece, I'll continue to add neutrals that work with my basic color. So, if I picked a gray skirt, and a top with a white background and a bright print with orange in it, I'll find neutral shoes that support gray, like black ones. If my outfit has a black skirt, but my shirt is an animal print, I'll break out the red shoes for the periphery, and carry a neutral bag.

Tricky items are the ones that are noticed immediately. If a friend says: Your shoes (the red ones!) are gorgeous, we don't want the same friend to say, "and the chiffon scarf around your neck is so filmy, the mirrored embroidery on your skirt is so intricate, the turquoise color of your bag is so bright!" The red shoes would have been enough.

Thanks so much for your kind words!

To be continued...