Trends fail me . . . Now What?

Dear Pres:
Good morning, everyone! This topic interests me a great deal and I'm happy it has been brought up~ I wanted to ask you (because I think I fit somewhere between the two worlds as far as trends and wearing what looks best on you) what your suggestions are for those like me, who, for example, did not buy a new dress for a year(until PR) because what was out there for a while were styles that would make me look like a badly wrapped burrito! ;) what solutions are there for someone like me, who won't buy something no matter how cute and trendy (like a T flat), knowing what it does to my figure? LOL What is a woman to do if/when the cute swing jackets or the trapeze dresses that are all the rage look bad on you? do you think there can be an advice that covers my situation? does lifestyle/job/need to show authority play a role in this? As a housewife whose life revolves around family or dinner invitations at someone's house or shopping for groceries or doctor's appointments I am happy with the wardrobe I currently have since each piece has been handpicked this past year and a half or so to be flattering to my shape, go with my skin and haircolor and make me look feminine. Those really have been my markers. Dressing to express who I am, what I'm about, what my priorities are. I suppose my question is: although I may not be wearing the latest clothes~ can't I still look polished and well dressed when modernizing items with other things, like accessories, shoes, makeup tones, etc? I live in Arizona, verrry laid back. How (does?) geography play a role in this? thank you in advance for any advice, as while i draw the line at all trend all time i also don't buy older styles either. Very gratefully yours,
Ileana


Excellent take on this question, Ili! I, of course, have some comments. It's probably safe to sit out trends for a season or so, but it takes care. What I recommend is defining your best look (I think you know it!) and then finding it in an up-to-date version, in the latest color or fabric. If you search your best go-to designers or shops, you will find that they have updated the look for the new season. I do this with certain designers that have my number for fit. I check them out every season, and usually I find something that works. Then, inexplicably, they change everything (including fit) and I am off to find a new favorite. As you know, I don't push shopping for the sake of it, but I do point out that fashion moves very, very quickly now (faster than before) and it's easy to get stuck in the past.

About the level of dressiness, it's a tricky issue, as well. I think this something like the problem that certain scientists have at work; they want to project an attractive image, but their environment is decidedly anti-fashion. If your environment is very casual, a dressy look can be overdone. Relax the look a little to avoid over-dressing.
Opt for only one snappy item per outfit. Choose impressive eye makeup or the metallic heels, not both. If folks are wearing casual shorts and hoodies (aren't they all?) wear the same items, but have the shorts crisp and pressed, and the hoodie made of silk. Most of these casual types cut back a great deal on grooming and polish (to be kind); that's not going to be your look. Look for accessories that aren't decidedly dressy (like heavy gold chains on the bag) but are smolderingly beautiful. Don't go for high impact color plus high impact make-up, plus heavy gold jewlery, plus platform heels.
This dressing down trend has affected us all. And, it's more difficult to look good while keeping the effect casual. But a casual ensemble that is also gorgeous earns the highest fashion accolades.

A trend suits me . . . Now What?

Thanks for all of your great advice.

I have discovered that the current cropped and swing jackets flatter my long-waisted figure. I have one black and white houndstooth in wool for winter and two others (white linen and black and white check tafetta) for summer. I love how I look in this style and always get complimented.

But, I hesitate to buy any more of these jackets since I can't predict if this style will stick around for much longer. I hate to have a bunch of clothing "expire" at once.

Do you have any thoughts on this?

Deb



I've already seen the longer jackets for Fall. A common response to this problem is to announce loudly that new things are always evil, and that you can find plenty of old styles that you love in secondary fashion markets, that you don't care what others think, and that now that you have found the style that flatters you most, you'll stick with it. This will fail though, because even if the jackets look great now, the fabrics and colors will become outdated soon enough, and the shapely effect will be negated by the passe materials.

Never stock up on any item, and a trendy one least of all. See if you can find just one or two of these jackets on rock bottom sale right now. Work them into smashing outfits, and wear them as much as possible. Don't invest in any for next season. They should be a staple of your current look. You might also have a few photos taken at this time, since you've got the goods!

If this style translates into a lasting classic (not likely, but possible) you will be able to find more of the jackets in many new collections, so you won't lack for good ones to add to your wardrobe. The new collections will be in updated colors, too. Check out Fall runway shows (they are all available online) and watch the fashion-forward retailers for their new looks (coming right up.) This will train your eye to appreciate the new shapes, and keep you looking forward. You will be able to add a few new things to the front of your closet, wear the middle range exhaustively, and dump the stuff from the back.

Work Uniform

I have a difficult issue here. I just have a job offer from an outdoor event company, as a project executive. I would see the clients and plan the adventurous outdoor training plan for corporate clients most of the time. The company's dress code is wearing the same uniform: the yellow plain polo with the company's logo (that is just exactly the same for females and males) and brown pants (shorts and long pants, but must be in brown) .

Before knowing this job, I've been stocking up my closet with a lot of smart casual wear and business wear, not expecting that I have to wear the same everyday.

As a person with interest for fashion, I want something more with this boring uniform. I am thinking that I could still wear my brown trousers (soft material) with this polo, but actually this could be a mismatch, since the material of polo is sth like crocodile one, which requires a harder material of the pant to match, but I only have one brown khaki pants (not exactly brown, though!) and I still prefer the soft material (like the usual work pants) to make it look more stylish and feminine, more professional and presentable to deal with clients.

I am also thinking wearing accessories with this yellow polo could spice up the outfit a little bit, but another problem comes up: I have a lot of feminine silver necklaces but I guess they do not fit with this sporty-boring polo....

sigh...

Hope you could help me about the pants, accessories part as well as other suggestions...

Another thing for me to concern, I would have to balance between spicing up the outfit a little bit, but not too outstanding between others' uniform.

Thank you in advance,
Smile



There is a delicate balance between a work uniform and individuality, and for me, the job requirement always trumps. Even so, there are some things that can be done here.

First, have the shirts tailored to fit you perfectly. This will be worth the trouble. Since they are the same for the men, I suspect that the shoulders, sleeve width and torso aren't too flattering, and that some tailoring will make a big difference. If you can wear your shirt untucked, be sure that the hem is just the correct length for you. The sweet spot on your hip is an important point for the hem, not hanging somewhere around your knees, or short enough to ride up. Use careful laundry techniques to keep the shirts bright, and iron them.

Remember that your hair, nails, skin, make-up (and shoes) can be used to counterbalance the plain nature of the outfit. Think of how the CEO of your company would look if she were going to a business meeting in a Limo, and then had to change just her clothes into the company uniform. I'll bet you could still tell she was the CEO. Don't mistake this for a need to wear evening make-up or accessories. Just be sure that you have sharpest daytime grooming that's available. Your accessories (bag, pen, sunglasses, note pad) should be slick, too. BTW, if you need a jacket sometimes, and this is not regulated, don't go for a man's zip up bomber with an elastic waist, nor a hoodie. There are plenty of short trenches, pea coats, and flared jackets that will look great instead.

Is it appropriate to take a small square scarf, roll it, and then tie it around your neck above the shirt collar? You can use nice prints and textured scarves. Don't do this if it would be seen as wrong for the job. I think silver jewelry works with your uniform, but to make it even better, try for some chunky silver pieces, especially with leather accents.

About the pants, I'm not sure what the "alligator" look of the shirt is? Do you mean a textured mesh polo?
How about some brown velvet cord 5 pocket pants? Or polished-cotton trousers? And, if shorts are standard, can you play with crops, walking shorts (long to just above the knee, maybe cuffed?) Try a pair of very polished walking shorts, with Black patent wedges, over a medium rope or wood grain heel. Maybe a small peep toe is OK, too.

Congratulations on the job offer!

Perfect Parts of Perfect Outfits

Pres, I don't understand something about the Pres Method. Once you have a perfect outfit, can you use the pieces for other outfits? I'd rather use the same piece several different ways, rather than create 'perfect outfits' that never get broken apart.
Thanks, Clueless.

Hello, Clueless!
I am not sure where you got the idea that perfect outfits are unchangeable? The creation of perfect outfits is a way to stop buying orphan pieces that don't work well with anything. If you can create multiple outfits with the great pieces that you have, Congratulations!

Versatility is a plus for any item, but not at the expense of perfection. I would suggest buying a piece if it looks great with one perfect outfit, instead of a piece that looks so-so (or worse) with everything that you own. Once it has found its place in a perfect outfit, the piece can be used for any amount of other (perfect) outfits, as well. It is your property, after all!

BTW, aren't you the one who thought that the perfect outfit was one single outfit that was perfect for all occasions, and told readers not to believe that such an outfit could be created? Perfect outfits are made for specific occasions and situations (like work.) If you find a perfect outfit that works for both the beach and work, let me know. I am assuming that you are not employed as a beachcomber.

Thrift Finds

I notice that you don't ever approve Thrift Shop finds. But I have some great things form there. Why don't you like them? Thanks, Thrift Shop Tessie



Hello, Tess,
Fashion is a moving target. You probably have plenty of old things in your closet already, why look for clothes that aren't current? They are at least one season behind to begin with, and the way things move these days, one season is a big loss of wearing time. Also, an outfit made mostly of old clothes is going to be apparent, no matter how nice they (once) were. If you really love to cruise the thrifts, don't look for basic items on the downswing, like denim skirts. Look for accent pieces (as high end as possible) such as bags, that you can add to a (perfect) fresh outfit, to provide some quirky interest. These items cannot support others (remember, the bag stands alone) but they may add a creative spark, if done correctly. And don't overdo the quirky, either. If you lay on embroidery, filmy chiffon, and dayglo glasses, the effect is just ludicrous.

Here's a basic suit that won't work any more: Dead as a Doornail
Can you tell why? The shoulders, the stance of the jacket, the shape of the skirt are all past.

Did I say Shoulders?

And look at this: Someone Bought it, Too!

I promise I'll stop now: Please, no.

DH's Reunion

I am attending my husband's 30 year class reunion in two weeks. I am having a hard time trying to decide what to wear. Please help. The first night is at an outdoor theatre, casual, also we are in Montana and it will probably still be cold. I didn't really want to wear jeans, but that probably will be the best bet for outside.
The second night is at a nice hotel here in town. Not a sit down dinner, but casual appetizers, drinks and dancing. I have a really cute pair of white sailer pants but have no idea what to wear with them to kind of be sexy for my husband but not too sexy that everyone thinks I am trying to be sexy.
HELP!!
Kelly

Reunions are very special events, as you can tell. Your DH is not only finding old friends, he's meeting them, and himself, at a younger age once again, as well. Ok, now that I have scared you completely, here's some help!

First, what is your best look? The look that puts a spring in your step, and gets a few compliments during the day? You know the one. In my case, it involves a shirt with a certain collar, and for others, it's a neckline, a hem length, pants legs of a certain width, a color. Take that look and modify it for this event. The white sailor pants sound like they work for you in just this way.

Add the perfect top. I recommend a wrap (but not for me! they won't stay closed!) for most women, since the fit shows off the bosom, but there is room to adjust the visible cleavage (for this event, not too much. Just a hint that it's under there.) With white pants, almost any color is good; pick the one that's best for you, maybe deep pink?

Perfect fitting, crisp jeans will probably work for the outdoor event, but if you aren't convinced, and they don't make your heart sing, look for some nice cotton twill 5 pocket pants instead. Be sure that the pants that you wear are exactly the right length. Too short is worse than too long.

And, this is no time to skimp on shoes, girl! Be sure that you have new ones that aren't showing wear, or style fatigue. I once splurged on a bag for a reunion (I would never have spent that much) and not only did it make my evening, sitting there so beautifully in my hand, attesting to all what DH had achieved, it turned out to last longer and look better than any evening accessory I ever had.

I would avoid any color or style that has a "title" You don't want to be the wife "in the red dress," in the "green glasses," in the "mini skirt" But you knew that. For this event, your hair (and makeup) require special attention, so get the appointment lined up now. Don't change anything major; it's too close for that, but be sure that your haircut and color are in the up cycle.

Find your best look, and wear it to the Reunion. Add shoes& accessories that are worthy of respect, and have your hair and makeup just perfect. He (and I) will be proud of you.

Mother Of Bride Accessories

I have bought this dress for my daughter's wedding in July and I love it. It is size 4, I have chin length dark hair and fair skin. Could you advise me on shoes, purse and jewelry?
Thank you!

MOB Dress



I can certainly see why you love it! The dress is gorgeous.
I'd start with tracking down the shoes, and then add the purse.

The shoes shown, a strappy sandal in silver, I think, are fine, but there are others to consider. Olive silk is a smashing fashionable choice, but Pink&Green may be a little trendy for the wedding photos. Burgundy patent falls into the same category.

If you want something more conservative, look for Pewter (I prefer pewter to silver, as it provides more support to the saturated pink color of the dress.) Here's another elegant choice: Anthracite Python.

When choosing your purse, choose something very small that fits into your hand. In your role, you won't be carrying it much, anyway. Champagne Clutch

For jewelry, don't load this beautifully shaped neckline with pearls, nor with anything that dangles below the pleated collar. Wear a simple short chain (maybe with a small CZ/diamond that falls into the hollow of your neck); a structured bracelet, and if you wear earrings, simple studs will do. You may wear a more substantial, larger cocktail ring (with a light green stone?) on your hand. All this jewelry may be real or faux; and although I prefer platinum color with fuchsia, if you have gold jewelry, that will work as well.

You have chosen a lovely dress for your happy occasion! Congratulations.

Sacramento To San Francisco

Hi Pres!

I'm an attorney, and I currently practice in the Sacramento, CA area. It's a very casual area. My current office is "business casual" which, for this particular firm, means khakis and cute tops to more formal slacks, dresses and skirts with related tops. It's pretty laid back. My boss actually wore semi-dressy crops recently. (We do wear suits for court appearances and to see clients.) I dress up a little more than others in the office. I wear a lot of wrap dresses, skirts and rather high heels. The weather is very warm right now, so I've been wearing summery fabrics and colors (e.g., white, cream, khaki, and navy with pops of bright yellow, coral, fuscia and kelly green).

Now for my question: I have accepted a new position in San Francisco. I'm very excited to make this geographical move, but I'm concerned about fashion. I'm told the office is also "business casual," (and that everyone wears jeans on Fridays) but I've also been told that the office is dressier than the firm's LA office because San Francisco tends to be dressier. Every time I visit SF, I get the same vibe. Most everyone seems to be wearing black/grey ensembles. There is very little color, if any at all. Also, it's almost always cold and/or windy there!

So, I have two challenges: appropriateness and warmth. I doubt there will be any occasion appropriate for my bright patterned skirts! So, what should I wear? Any thoughts you have for sample ensembles or ideas of some basics I should add to my wardrobe would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Kristin


I got a consultation for this one; I asked someone who travels regularly to both of those places for business. She often meets with lawyers as part of her work. Here are some good tips on how to assess the the situation and go forward, as well as more specific items that work for her:

Having been to both cities for work, I'll offer up some points.
Sacramento can get, from a temperature perspective, a lot hotter (like 110.) San Francisco doesn't ever get that hot.

Concerning style, San Francisco is definitely the land of the fleece coat and leather round toe, square heel shoes. With that said, remember that San Francisco has a very high end shopping area; they have the only stand alone Goyard store in the USA; plus a Saks, Neimans and Barneys, all in walking distance from one another, and a Prada, Gucci, Max Mara, as well.

I suggest a trip over there, and a good look around. No need to buy anything; but the clothes will be gorgeous, and you will pick up some local style pointers. Those shops are selling to the most elegant SF women, and it's easy to copy any outfit at another price point. There are sales, too. It will take research to overhaul a professional wardrobe, but it will be worth it.

I live in my Prada trench (double breasted short rain coat) when I am in San Francisco, or my Max Mara wrap coat, but I never need my heaviest winter coat, because it doesn't really get cold enough.

A coat like the Prada: from Nordstrom

I can't find the Max Mara look online, but consider these MM's at Yoox. They (especially the suit) look great for San Francisco. And many items shown here are truly elegant.
Best Of Luck!

Choosing Crops

Pres-
Please help. I love the notion of crops but I think they accentuate a person's hips and derriere. How does a person wear crops and make them look 'styling'?
Thanks, Vava

Crops are very handy for adult women who don't like shorts. The fit is a little tricky, but there are some basic principles that you already know. The principles follow those for skirts, not pants guidelines.

1) You must try them on. OK, this is true for pants too, but in choosing pants, the hem is going to end in a fixed place, somewhere down around your feet. For a skirt, and crops, the placement is more variable, and includes any place along the lower leg.

2) The hems must end at the exact right spot. They will place a horizontal stop where they end; and, they will place a visual arrow at that point. All legs have a different sweet spot, so see #1. As with the aforementioned skirts, always look for a thin part, maybe where your calf tapers? If the calf doesn't taper (at either end of the spectrum, thin legs, or heavy ones) you have two options: where the knee ends, or, just above the ankle. If you are lucky enough to have thin ankles tapering below heavier calves, a wide crop that ends just there is terrific.

3) The cloth is very important. I like black satin crops, which add a dressy look to a casual item, and also work for very dressy events, with the proper support pieces. For wide crops, I prefer olive or khaki twill. It's a reliable casual look. This falls under the "one tricky item per outfit" rule. Since the shape of the crops is tricky, the cloth should be reliable and defined.

4) The Shoes will absolutely make or break a Crops Outfit. This is more important than with skirts or standard pants. Not only will the type of shoe count, but the angle at which they place your foot is crucial.
Since the crops are cutting your leg line, avoid flat MJs (especially the kind with an athletic sole.) An MJ, or other shoe with bands across the foot or ankle (like ankle strap sandals) should have high heels to be able to work with crops. If you wear kitten heels, the only acceptable shoe is a mule with an open back; or extremely low profile shoes (with a tiny toe box, and a minor strip of leather covering the sides.) Kitten heels on high profile pumps will devastate most outfits, and crops even more so. For wider crops, like the cargo type, look for a cute sandal. If you are adding width to your ankle with a wide ribbon tie, don't wear this with crops. The ribbon tie requires a horizontal sweep above, like a wide hem skirt. But I digress.

5) The crops themselves should fit according to your usual principles (what's better for your bottom? 5 pocket, side zip flat front, or trouser?) And, watch for any hardware (belt loops) or decoration (pockets) that may trip you up. For side pockets, have them cut out and sewn shut so that they don't wing out at the hips. You can always use the shirt hem trick to cut the bottom (the hem of the tee in back should cut the bottom horizontally in half, if you need it. Don't do this at the widest point.)

6) The worst look that I have ever seen is wrinkled, wide, white cotton-linen crops, loose below the butt, over flat sandals with wide brown leather straps, and a pale pastel polo tee with a notched hem over. This usually goes with frizzy hair and a sloppy shoulder hobo. Instead, this lady could be wearing: A crisp navy polo with a yellow cotton sweater tied around the shoulders. Flat-ironed smooth hair, white twill crops that end at just the right spot on her leg, and peanut colored wedges. A nice canvas tote, big sunglasses and a few pieces of gold jewelry.

Good Luck!

Quality or Quantity?

Pres:

I enjoy your site and check in daily.

Lately, I have been trying to up my game by paying a lot of attention to accessorizing-which for me means changing my handbag to go with each outfit.

In the past, I would "invest" in one bag and wear it with everything. At the moment, I have a collection of cheap bags that are trendy and that I change up frequently. What are your thoughts?

Deb


Excellent question, Deb.
I am assuming that you are not matching those bags to the outfits; and that they are coordinating accent pieces and/or pops of color?
If so, we'll just check a few more pointers before we decide.

a)The inexpensive bags look really good? They aren't full of tarnishing buckles and worn plastic edging? They will look worse sooner. Be sure to dump them when they do.

b) There aren't too many bags that will all go out of season at once? When the season changes, oh so soon, they will all have strutted their stuff? They won't be back next year. Yellow will not be the big color of 2009, I'd guess.

c) You are not in a location, job situation, or age group, where the bag functions as a critical status symbol? Many may sneer at this, but I prefer to face reality. As you move up in status or age, some of the things that you are associated with should inspire respect. Youth gets a learner's permit.

d) The outfits themselves don't have trend overload? A few classic items are in the mix, and the bag stands alone (as a fun item)? The shoes are good, not better for woodsy treks? No trendy earrings in addition? No dated floral print skirts? No bright eyeglass frames? Remember, one tricky item per outfit. In this case, the bag is it.

e) The events that you attend are appropriate for these cute accents? They're great at a picnic, not so good at State Funerals.

This choice works better in the summer months, when clothes are more casual, than in winter. If you have winter in your location, a better bag will go for about 9 months without failing, and classic colors, like black/brown/burgundy will work with most winter ensembles. The bag can go well with (not match!) the coat, too. In summer, more varied outfits are seen in public, and different bags will go along. Summer colors are brighter, too, and bright colors can often save the day. Winter bags are more sedate, and they require that glow of good material to shine.


Have fun!