Versatile Dress

I am going to travel, and I have room for just one basic outfit (maybe a few pairs of shoes.) I would like this outfit to work back home, too. And, I want it to work for all occasions, from casual to dressy. Too much to ask for?

What you need here is a sleeveless dress in a matte jersey or crepe, with a jacket over, if needed. Some accessory changes will
help create the look for all situations.

Basic Dress

I like the sleeveless, because if you need to go to an evening event, you can wrap a lightweight glittery shawl around, add some open toed heels, glittery jewelry, an updo, and you are BT.

If the occasion is more casual, this dress will support a cotton jacket and espadrilles.

For work, the dress/jacket looks good with pumps or wedges; and, a cardi or other knit sweater (even a turtle) will make this into a sweater/skirt ensemble. Boots work, too.

The basic element is a fluid matte fabric Dress in a solid color, with a straight neckline. If this isn't your most flattering look, the dress is out there with sleeves, with a more defined waist and skirt; with more or with less fabric, a wider skirt, or a narrow one. Yes it is.

And, the monochrome column, with a folded narrow scarf worn straight down the front, and the jacket over, will subtract pounds, too.

The New Matching

I still don't get the matching thing. You wrote about wearing black patent shoes with a mostly-brown shades dress.
Then, you nixed black patent for a mostly black print. Please explain.

This is a change. That's what makes it difficult. And, it's tricky. That's what makes it so nice.
There was a time when we dyed shoes to match our dresses, if you can remember back that far. Then we stopped.
Later, we wore shoes that matched a color in our ensembles, and we never mixed brown and black, or navy and black, either.
Now, instead of looking for shoes, or bags, that match our outfits, we look for ones that support or enhance the effect, but don't necessarily match. It's tough to make a big turn, but it's worth it.

If the main part of the outfit (the mostly brown shades) is well coordinated, it's nice to add something outside of the box as an accent. Black patent is a true neutral, and if there is a color that it can't support, let me know. Some matte black leathers won't support a brownish ensemble, because they look like a near miss, but black patent will do the job nicely. BTW, patent was once worn in the summer only (and suede in the winter) but that's over, too.

For the black print, black patent will work, but we are missing an opportunity to create a truly smashing outfit by adding another color, like red. If it's for a conservative event, try a darker red. If you want to add a terrific bag to this ensemble, instead (one tricky item per outfit) then wear peanut (tan) shoes, and add a bright turquoise, bright yellow, bright green or bright red/deep pink bag instead.

BTW, for the brownish print dress, with the black patent shoes, I'd add a (small) yellow bag.
This is the new mix, not the old match.

Caron's Post

Here's a Blog post from today's Guest Blogger, Caron:


Palm Beach Hose

Comments:
As a Floridian, I vote "NO"! But we all know how hard it is to get votes counted in Florida!

Enjoy, my friends,
Caron

Closet Memories

I was reminded by Ileana's comment, on the previous closet thread, that closets serve other purposes besides holding the clothes that we wear every day.

Some items in our closets are very hard to part with, because they hold memories of significant events, or of a different time, or a different body that we had to dress. These items fall into the category of "archival items," and, if you have the room, by all means, keep them. Box them up, put them in storage, keep them under the bed, wherever you have the space.

These things are very unlikely to work into perfect outfits in the upcoming seasons, but the occasional accessory may return as an accent piece. You are welcome to box all those, too. Just don't mistake these pieces for the clothing that you will be wearing soon.

Once an item has failed, it's unusual to have it reclaim its premier position. If it's so-so to begin with, it's even less likely to begin to wow you. So, arrange your closet to hold perfect items that sing out loud, only.

Discard the ones that fail (remember the Pres Wear Test; wear them once, for a whole day, and see how you feel about 'em. Then toss the losers out.) Any items that are out of season, or nostalgic favorites, can certainly be stored, but not for wearing tomorrow.

Closet Blues

I really can't clear out my closet. It's jammed, and I have nothing to wear.

Wardrobe management is as important as knowing what styles are best for you, maybe even more so. Management involves the intake of new items (that is, shopping for clothes, LOL), maintenance of current ones, and the difficult task of discarding the items that don't work for you. The Pres Method is a way to organize these tasks.

First, gather all your clothes that are in season right now. It's impossible to accurately evaluate items that are for next season, or even from the last. The sunlight just isn't right, and the feel of the cloth won't work for today's temperature. So move all out-of-season clothes to the back, and we'll deal with them another time, when their calendar date comes up.

Now you have a big pile of stuff. Look the pile over, and pull out any outfit that you absolutely want to zip-up-right-now-and-run-out-the-door. The ensemble that sings right out loud. I have the feeling that's not going to be a large quantity, but look those things over, and place any that need cleaning or repairs in a Cleaning and Repairs Pile. Deal with that pile when I am not around.

Next, pick the first item on the top of the remaining pile, and look it over. Make no attempt to find something passable. Just take the top thing. Do you want to wear it right now? Or, do you absolutely hate it and want to dump it immediately? If hate, put it in the donate bag and don't look back.

Most items will fall into the middle ground. You're not going to put them on and head for a stroll on the avenue (where all your old boyfriends are waiting to run into you; one on every corner.) But, you're not sure if it there isn't a little life left in them yet. You're a thrifty soul, and you don't want to discard anything that might be of practical use, of course. I understand.

Take the top item from the "maybe" pile, and prepare it for wearing the next time that you go out of the house. Find the right shoes, bag, etc. Then, wear it. Did you hear me? Wear it.

Why not? It's in season, right? The weather's good for it. And you have the parts needed for an ensemble, yes? So what's stopping you? Wear it for a full day.

One of two things will happen. The outfit may work beautifully, and three people will approach you (one a stranger) and tell you that you look great. You will walk with a spring in your step all day long. If this happens, take the item, and put it on a good hanger in your regular current wardrobe area. (Also, send me an email. This never has happened once in the history of the world, so it will be a first.)

On the other hand, if you spend the day pulling the front closed, the hem down, or just looking generally miserable, and someone asks you if you are getting a cold; then take it off when you enter your home, and fling it into the donate bag. After a day like that, you should be poised to give it a good fling.

Repeat this process with the next item on the pile, for as many days as it takes. The occasional piece can be worn with some clever usage under a shirt, or by arranging a scarf to hide the shoulders, but it won't be the norm. Most of the stuff will wind up in the bag.

You won't get a perfect wardrobe out of this (that's called shopping, and it's another part of the Pres Method) but your closet will be unjammed, and you'll have plenty of space to put things that you love to wear.

What Are Basics?

I am very confused now. In other posts, in response to my questions, you suggested some flattering styles for a tummy and thick thigh, like the wrap blouse or wide cut trousers. But are they basics? Here's the dilemma: The basics - to my knowledge, are not always the one that are the most flattering to my body. So what kind of basics should I buy?

I think in my wardrobe, the most basic is the black suit - classic blazer and straight cut trousers, and the cami to wear inside. For casual wear, I usually stick to my straight cut jeans and the cami alone. But such basics bore me, while the fads come and go; and I also get bored very fast with any more complicated design.

And sometimes you just cannot find straight cut jeans when the fad is about skinny jeans, ultra low waist, which I hate so much because it does not flatter my tummy at all! The market and my budget just does not allow me to find the thing I want.

Thanks,
Smile


Hello, Smile!

Ignore all labels! Even the word "basic" is a label. It's how pieces look that count.

Never buy anything, no matter how black, basic, or sale priced, that doesn't look great on your body. You aren't dressing a fashion doll, you are dressing the body that you have.

It sounds like you can spot a trendy fad item, and you know that they don't interest you for very long. (You're lucky! Some folks fall for a current item, and then can't let go! They wear them for too long, and they troll thrifts to find ones that others have discarded.) Trendy items should command the lowest amount of your budget, and you can plan to donate them as soon as the season changes. They won't be back next year, but they are a way to keep up the visual interest that you crave in an outfit.

An item that has been around for a few seasons, like the wrap top, should go for a few more, but you cannot always be sure of this. Once upon a time, the DvF wrap dress went out with a crash. And the ultra low rise is over, too.

To choose basics, pick something that looks great on you. Try for a neutral color, like black, brown or gray. (Even neutrals move on. Gray is the hot one right now.) Avoid prints, because they can be dated very precisely. Don't buy too many at any one time; just the amount that can get you through without laundry disasters. In every season, cull the old "basics" from the back of the closet, and add one fresh outfit up front.

Wardrobe Skills

I see from my mail that wardrobe management involves more than knowing what clothes are flattering, although that's a big part of it. Even knowing how to create perfect outfits, using the Pres Method, isn't enough.
Here a few tips for shopping successfully:

1) Dress up when you go shopping. Hair, make-up, and shoes. This will impress the sales help. The sales persons know a good customer, so dress like one. In addition, if you are polished up, and the item fails to wow you, you will be less likely to think it will be improved by a better hairstyle. More than half of shopping is having the strength to walk away from the so-so choice, and wait for the sound of singing, instead. We don't need more excuses to buy something tepid.

2) Have the proper underwear, too, please. If you are buying an evening gown, wear the strapless. And the high heeled shoes. Carry them if you can't shop in spikes. And, wear something that's easy to get out of. Don't be tempted to try the shirt over the turtleneck.

3) If you can, take a friend along. Not so much for opinions (What do they know? They are your friends, you always look great to them) but for someone to run out of the dressing room and find some more sizes, so you don't have to get dressed.

4) Know what the return policy is for the stores you are in; also, is there a tailor on the premises? Some of these folks are genius.

5) Ask yourself if you want to put the item on and walk out the door immediately. No? Planning to stock up on some basics for next year because they're on sale? Don't buy.
Even in bra and hosiery sales, the elastics will deteriorate while they are waiting to be worn. Have just the amount that you need now; maybe one (one!) kept in the package for an emergency. Then, when you need the new one, rotate it into the regular wearing group; do this at least once a year; longer is not good. Discard the oldest item that you have, and buy a new emergency piece (one!)

I Need Something to Wear 2

Here's a post from Ileana about this topic:

What a great question/comment. I learned the hard way when my children were young that I could never predict growth for "next year" when "being smart and stocking up for the following summer or winter" to come around. it took two times of doing this before I realized I was basically wasting my money because by the time it was time to wear them they had already outgrown it or it was during the wrong season~name it, it went wrong! I learned to do the same with mine, although for other reasons as well as unpredictability. (gosh I hope that's a word in english)~ I am very fickle. I am a mood dresser, I like to change things up and go from one extreme to the other in styles and stocking up on things sort of make me feel as though I'm stunting my own growth in style.
i like to add a pair of shoes or two each spring and fall and I rely a lot on current accesories or vintage ones that surprisingly work 30 years later~ to keep things fresh. makeup and hair is a big and inexpensive way to bring a classic wardrobe into now as well.
I loved this question and the answer because it's something that I face every time I feel like buying something for a later time or stocking up on the same item but in various colors.
Ileana
(Our Guest Blogger)

I Need Something to Wear

Pres, I looked at all my clothes from last Spring, when I was lucky to stock up at sales, and I have nothing to wear. Even my fitted blazer jackets are looking a little drab to me.
Help.

Well, things do move on, and "stocking up" is about as bad a reason as "comfortable" when acquiring clothes. It's a big step when you realize that your stuff isn't working, instead of doggedly hanging on to tired looks, so Congrats!

To begin again, what is the item type that you wear most? Is it a jacket, a cami, wedges? You need a new one of that. Luckily, now that it's Spring, the Spring items are on sale, just at the time that you need to wear them! Start with one item. You have too many things, trust me. Remember that the colors for this Spring are bright and saturated colors.


Here's a jacket in a new shape and color. Pomegranate
Now, mix that with your basics (you did stock up on basics, didn't you?) like a tan pencil or jeans, over a plain white shirt, and you are good to go. This color is not likely to be big again next Spring, but you are going to have worn this jacket into rags by then, anyway.

If you never wear jackets, what is it that you do wear? That's the new item to buy. Just one. Buy and wear Now.

Rayon/Lycra Collections

Good morning, Pres,

What do you think of the rayon/lycra collections? Chico's "Travelers" or JJill's "Wearever" for example. (I know what others would say; now let's hear from the real expert!)

I would never wear them to work or to social functions, but I wore black pants and shell with a brown tunic-style short-sleeve v-neck cardigan for air travel last week, and I loved them. They were comfortable [sic. Ed.] and looked just as fresh at the end of the day as when I departed early in the morning.

I wore a 2 strand brown wooden beads long necklace and black platform sandals. I am tall (5'8") and I felt even taller! My bag was a light green leather tote.

I hadn't worn the pants and shell in a long time, but I saw the sweater in a catalog (JJill) that showed them with similar pieces and really liked the look, so I ordered the sweater and gave it a try. Wrinkles have always been my nemisis, so I was pleased.

Candor, please!

Caron




It will take reading my whole post to get your answer!

I always say: Ignore all labels: size, store, department or fabric. So I have no standing objections to the cloth used in these lines. On the other hand, Calvin Klein, when asked for his evaluation of the widely popular new fabric, Polyester, said, "It launders well." ( And he didn't mean that in a nice way.)

I looked over the fashions in the on-line catalogues that you mentioned, because I have, occasionally, found gems for my wardrobe in the most unlikely catalogues, but I found that most of the items are cut in a way that I would have to say is just a tad unfashionable. Somehow, they lack the kick of a new top from a top fashion site. The pants shown are aggressively too short, especially with the boots; and the length of the crops, skirts, and wide leg pants is, ah, ungainly. The hems end at just the wrong spot on the leg. What are they thinking? Can't Rayon/Lycra be hemmed properly? Maybe it doesn't drape well?

Now, here's the surprise: Airplane travel requires special clothes. It's like going to the gym, where one can wear spandex pants and big white sneakers. Gym clothes are made for athletic activities, and air travel activities requires dedicated garments as well. Air travel often includes having no clue where one will actually be at any given moment over the next day or so, uncontrolled artificial climates, food and beverages being balanced on tiny surfaces, lurching foot holds, questionable bathroom facilities, and; sometimes, someone whom you don't know falling into a drunken stupor with his head on your shoulder and drooling on your jacket (as happened to me); or, having the Former President of The United States of America seated directly next to you for 14 hours on a non-stop flight ( as happened to my Dear Daughter. And again on the return trip four days later.) Now, which situation would you dress for?

Movie stars and models (the ones that you don't see as bad examples in mags) wear monochromatic outfits (usually black) for air travel, and they have plenty of options. If you can assemble a crush proof, drool proof, hard-as-nails outfit to wear on a plane, go for it. It's a lot better than wearing yoga pants, after all. I trust you not to use these pieces interchangeably with your usual perfect separates, even in a pinch, and to take pains to have the pants/skirts shortened to the perfect lengths.

I would rethink the sandals, though.

MOB Continued...

As we are in the final countdown to the wedding, I have just two final questions. At your suggestion, I am having shoes dyed a darker olive green. They are a pointy toe d'orsay with a small rhinestone detail on the toe. The dress has just a bit of bead detail along the (V) neckline. The beads sparkle just a bit of iridescent pink and green.
The Dress

Now the questions; first jewelry. With the beading on the neckline, I don't think a necklace is right. I am planning to wear my mother's vintage watch, which has a very thin gold band, with small diamonds around the face and three larger diamonds clustered at the 12 and 6. What should I do about earrings? I have diamond earrings, but my daughter is wearing them. Also, what color purse should I carry (for the reception, not down the aisle!)?
As always, thank you so much for you help!
Halfpint


Consider a dark pink, mauve bag. Very smokin' with your color scheme. Another possibility is a small light rusty brown hard side croco minaudiere. I would keep it very small, for your proportions, and so as not to compete with the cloth of the big dress. Just something you hold in your hand. (At older DS's wedding, I had a cut velvet little pouch bag with a ribbon closure dangly handle, you know the type? I never picked it up once. I think I left it in the Bridal Room until the end. So for younger DS, I just brought my trusty black satin evening bag, and I also never picked it up once....)
You are correct about the necklace. I wore my Mom's bracelet watch, too. Same jewel trim as yours.

About the earrings, I don't think you need more diamonds, in your outfit, but if you think that you do, don't be afraid to replace your own with some cubic studs. No one will be able to tell for the occasion. Otherwise, I would stay in the same metallic family as the watch, and go for something polished, not dangling.
Let me know what earring choices you consider.

Here's what I meant by a minaudiere. It is very tiny, and it doesn't have to be croco, although that would be fabulous with your dress color.
Tiny
Here are more:
Shapes
(some of the shapes don't work for a wedding , of course, but they do have some beauties here.)

The outfit sounds smashing. You are a perfectionist, and it shows in everything that you do.
Congratulations!

Basic White Shirts

I've heard that owning a white basic shirt is good; you can dress it up and dress it down with accessories and things like that. But I am not sure how basic is basic, since if it is just a plain white collar shirt, long sleeves, it is not fashionable at all.

So could you give some examples about basic decoration on the shirt, and how to use accessories to make it party wear? office wear? casual wear?

Thanks. Your site is not boring at all. I visit it everyday for tips.

You are welcome! White shirts aren't all alike. If they were, I wouldn't own five of them (they spend a lot of time in the laundry).
And, as you noticed, a plain collar and button front is very plain, indeed. Remember that white shirts do come in various fabrics. A fitted satin shirt over velvet pants doesn't do the same job as a light linen tunic over a cami and jeans.

However, if you consider all white shirts, there are many, many ways to wear them.

Party wear:

>Shirt with a tuxedo (pleated) front. Wear this over black satin crops, high heels. A sequin sweater, worn tied around shoulders. Hair up in a twist, a few spiky ends sticking up; diamond stud earrings.

>White Satin shirt, full skirt (can be floor length); tucked in, add a velvet belt with sparkly buckle. Can wear low heels, good for dancing.

>Sparkly tank, or bustier, shirt worn open over to provide coverage, sleeves rolled to elbow, straight fitted skirt, embroidered boots.

>Fitted, fine cotton collar shirt, top buttons open, dark velvet jeans. Take a man's formal evening satin bow tie, and drape it around the back of the neck of the shirt (as if you were tying it in front, but don't tie it. ) Keep one side of the untied ends higher than the other in the front. Be forewarned. This is a powerful look.

For Work:
Standard white collar, button front shirt, plus:
>Menswear beige skirt, small fitted cardi (any nice color) with some embellishment, shorter sleeves, over.
>Slimming: dark, narrow folded scarf draped around back of neck, ends in front, lighter color jacket worn open, over.
>Gray suit, plus merlot (burgundy, maroon) patent heels, if job permits.

Office Casual:

>Worn under a loose cowlneck, white collar points up, sleeves of turtle rolled so white sleeves show.
>Fine knit open scoop neck short sleeve tee over; tweedy bubble hem skirt.

Casual:

>Canvas swing jacket in sorbet color, over.
>Belted low, collar up, worn over jeans. Rolled sleeves, heavy bangles.
>Worn under dark cowl neck sweater; cowl pulled down all around to make open neck that reaches from shoulder to shoulder; shirt's shoulder tops exposed.
>Worn over leopard print narrow skirt, last button open; narrow patent belt. Black (or red) wedges.

BTW, White is a great color to support the bright colors of this season.
Here's a picture

Little Black Dress

LBD

I found a black dress, simple, but I'm not sure; is it timeless or not? I think wearing a black dress (and black leggings) is not really appropriate for wedding cocktails (seems better for a funeral instead). So I 've been wondering what colour and design can somehow replace the timeless "little black dress," and go well with leggings. I want to have good investment pieces that are not out of fashion in 5 years' time.

And should I buy this black dress (in chiffon) ? Very tempting because of the sale; but don't know when I could use it , since I don't go to cocktail parties, except for wedding ones.

There's no such thing as a timeless dress. Although the LBD is a timeless concept ( at least since Chanel invented it in the 1920's) the dress itself will change. Some dresses have elements that are trendier than others, but in the main, no dress is going to look as good today as it did five years ago. The cut of the shoulders, position of the arm eyes, and angle of the waist is going to change (believe me.)

Here's where your other comment comes in, "I don't go to cocktail parties." Look for a dress, not in black chiffon, which is an evening fabric, but in a plain silk, linen blend or knit. The cut of the neckline shouldn't say "cocktails." A Vee neck dress with a knee length skirt is ideal. This dress can take you to many different activities, especially with the right accessories, and will be worn out in less than five years, so you will get your money's worth, and look great at the same time.

And now, the accessories. Leggings are trendy, not classic pieces, and, as you note, an all black ensemble can look a bit somber for a happy occasion. There are some lighter outfits that will support leggings; consider a modern geometric print, and a swingy jacket with ruffles on the sleeves and edges to top it off.

Remember that your closet probably has more than enough to wear for the next five years, but that you need something to wear right now!

V for Wedding Guest

I will be attending an evening church wedding (6 pm)in a coastal town in SC in early June. Is a sleeveless deep-V (front and back) black dress, knee-length, appropriate? The style is very flattering for me and is a classic look. Is black appropriate for the occasion in SC? Also I would like to wear a lightweight wrap (scarf?) over my shoulders and arms for the service. Would you advise this and if so, what fabric and color? Am open to jewelry and evening bag suggestions as well. (I am petite and a youthful brunette, early fifties). Thank you for your suggestions.
Sab

The sleeveless deep V dress is truly a classic, Congratulations!
About the colors for a wedding guest's dress, two are always under discussion. A White Dress is the color that is reserved for the bride; but white trim, white accessories, and white sections in a print, etc., are fine for guests. Look at the dress and ask: Is this a white dress? If the answer is yes, don't wear it to a wedding, please. You don't want to be mistaken for the bride.

Black is a color that was associated with mourning (although, until the time of Queen Victoria, black was a very common color for brides, as their best dress was usually black. Since Queen Victoria's wedding dress was white lace, white became the color for brides.) Black has been a common color for evening wear, and dress wear, in more recent times, and in my area, it's not associated with mourning any longer. Black is often worn by bridal parties and wedding guests here. I would check with someone in SC about this, just to be sure.

These color histories are from Western Cultures; white is a mourning color, (and red is for good luck) in some Eastern cultures, as well.

The wrap for coverage of your shoulders is perfect. You could try a pashmina shawl in any glowing color that suits you. I favor deep dusty pink for this, but others will work, as well. If you would like something more dressy (where is the reception?) there are metallic shawls, like this sheer silver organza to add shine.

For other accessories, try a very small clutch in another neutral, like dark tan croco print, to hold in your hand.

Thighs

I have thick thighs and I learned from all the fashion websites that Boot cut/ flared type of pants could balance out my body. However the flared type of pants are not in right now. The straight cut and skinny type, which is quite fashionable, does not do any good for my thick and short thighs. I am not sure what type of pants I should wear right now.

Another thing is about the colour, I wear black pants most of the time to slim out my body, but I do like to wear white pants. I just can't find the right material for this white pant in order to make my thigh look slim, and thick enough not to show my panty lines.
What do you suggest?

Be sure to look for flat front, straight leg trousers, not 5 pocket pants. In trousers, the legs begin immediately below the waistband. In 5 pocket pants, there's a strip of horizontal cloth sewn in in the back just below the waistband, and above the beginning of the legs.
Consider wide cuffed pants if you aren't too petite in height; or a wide sweep hem without cuffs if you are. To be certain that the pants are straight leg, not tapered, fold the hem up over the thigh, and see that they are the same width. If the trousers aren't too tight at the thigh, and they fall straight (or widen) at the hem, you will get a very flattering look. As an alternative, try some palazzo pants (with really wide legs) and see how they look. Be careful, whatever pants you wear, that they are the right length (Not too short! They should cover most of your shoe!) and that the hem is angled properly for your shoes as well. Consider high wedges or heels to give your legs some added length.

About the panty lines, you can avoid them under white pants with flesh tone (not white) underwear, in a "boycut" style.

From My Inbox

I am flattered by the amount of detailed (although often incorrect) attention you pay to my dress habits. However, I feel sorry for anyone who is so intrigued by boring me that they would expend the amount of energy you do commenting on it. Even worse for someone with quite the amount of vitriol. There cannot be much of a life here. I am so terribly sorry that you are so bored.
Wendy Dackson


Thanks for writing! Many posters recognize themselves (or think they do) on SOS; usually, they've given up on style long ago, and are really crying to be helped. We do try to address the most common mistakes, like overdoing the old vintage stuff, and matching bright colors. It's tricky, but it can be done.

Start with a very few well fitting basics, like a (gray? dark beige?) skirt that skims the hips, with a swing hem, and a nice wrap shirt, in a saturated color (blue? bright green?) over. Some medium wedges in a muted croco tone are good for walking, and flatter the ankles as well. A jacket with a little structure (not soft material) that closes at the proper button, is great over. Don't overdo the matching bright accessories; a necklace, or a bangle or two, in your favorite color, is good. That's a pretty basic ensemble, but will take you many places. If you want to branch out, be careful of adding competing details like embroidery or diaphanous print scarves. Less is more.

BTW, I don't find SOS boring. Although the problems are often repeated, there are many different solutions for different situations, and I do enjoy helping whenever I can, even if it does involve some pointers that are difficult to absorb by some, and that I have to drive home.

Orange Shirt for Work

I have a new orange shirt. It's in a cotton linen fabric and is a button front with long sleeves. What can I wear with orange? Also, what color lipstick should I wear? I have very pale skin, blue eyes, and salt&pepper hair in a short style with bangs. I am a supervisor in a suburban government office where people come to get building permits, and file other applications. We don't wear jeans in our office, but only the two or three most senior people wear suits to work. The rest of us ladies have more casual jobs, because we deal with the residents. Still, I am a bridge between the casual dressers and the ones in suits. Thank you for any ideas,
Donna

You have a very good concept of the positions in the office, and that's an important issue. Also, you've decided to try orange, which, among other brights, is a hot color for this year. Your orange shirt would look absolutely smashing with white for this summer. A white suit in a crisp fabric would support the shirt well. Find one with a jacket that doesn't have a too closed front (look for a deep vee or a low stance top button) so that the shirt is exposed. A pencil or A-line skirt, or pants would work. To keep the look from being too vacation, don't wear white shoes or bag; instead, add closed (or sling back) pumps in tan, and an oatmeal or deep (not bright) navy bag. Be sure that the pants are the right length (not too short.) Add some golden jewelry.

Orange can also work with khaki; the look is not as dramatic, if you want to tone it down. Gray and orange are a good Fall combo, with a menswear gray cloth suit or skirt. I like light brown croco print pumps with this. Orange doesn't work with black!

For the lipstick, don't match the tones to the colors in your clothes. I think a medium pink sounds right for you, and if so, stick with it.

Dress for The Season? Or the Weather?

Good morning Pres,

Who would have thought I would be seeking advice this soon?


I am going to the ballet this evening. My dilemma relates to the weather. Even though it is mid-May, it is unseasonably cold here. The high today is 10C or 50F and it will cool off by evening. I have two options as far as I see it. I have a black wool Ann Taylor dress that has sleeves just past the elbow, a scoop neck and a velvet bow about 2" high that is just below the bust. Simple and appropriate and I could wear it with a pair of d'orsay pumps (peep toe) in deep teal with black heels, edging and bow on toe with sheer black hose. If I wear this, I will likely wear a deep rose faux pearl bracelet and slightly chunky purple glass earings with metallic flecks. The other option is to dress for the season rather than the weather and wear a cocktail dress, bare legs, and sandals. I have quite a few dresses but the three I will likely choose from are a deep red silk chiffon maggy london, a wedgewood blue maggy london also in chiffon with charmeuse waist, or a black chiffon deep v front and back with a bid of beading on the empire waist.
Thanks, Cheryl


Cheryl, a glitch in my Email made me miss advising you on this event, but it's such an important topic that I wanted to open the discussion, anyway. The trick is to develop a bunch of outfits that look like the Season, but function for the Weather. This is exceedingly difficult to do, and earns a fashion A plus for anyone who is successful.

Besides keeping warm enough in miserably cold May, there's coping with the infernal heat well into Autumn (here.) I have some suggestions for future planning, however, based on my trials with this. I hate when the weather nixes an outfit that I am hoping to wear, but I try to have a few handy substitutes in mind. This did not work for me at my son's wedding, when I roasted in a cut velvet gown with a furry portrait collar at Thanksgiving time (Temp75&high humidity.) Still, I press on.

Eliminate all wintery appearing fabrics when it's Spring. This includes my aforementioned cut velvet, and furry trims. I have a Springy raincoat with a hidden warm lining. Suede is now an all season fabric for shoes, but there are Spring colors of suede, and Winter ones. I also recommend pashmina shawls in seasonless colors, like dusty rose, and teal. To look Spring-like, try mixing fresh bright white with brown/black; including animal prints like giraffe. This is also one of my favorites for Fall, when I wear a collarless giraffe print tunic (very light weight, but brown/black), which I put over cream silk trousers, with closed toe suede/croco print D'orsay (open sided) dark peanut pumps. I've accumulated some florals in heavier weights, too (like a cardigan) and although it's warm, it looks like the Spring season. As you can see, I've been working on this for a while.

All your outfits sound smashing to me. I love mixing the black with the lighter colors; the rose and teal, for a perfect Spring- like ensemble; and, as for the open sandals, evening wear tends to show more skin, even in the Winter. Hopefully, you won't have to slosh through snow in your finery at any time. This is Pres' wish for you.

You might try some micro fishnets (they really are very unobtrusive in natural) if you are wearing closed toes, and the weather is too cool for bare legs. They aren't as warm as heavy tights, but they do replicate the warmth of nylons, approximately. I'm sure that you looked gorgeous, as always. Please, let us know what you wore (and I'll try to be quicker in the future!)

I Wear Old Clothes

I see that fashion icons often have unchanged hair,
and basic wardrobe shapes from year to year. Why aren't they out of date?
I want to wear old things. I'm comfortable in them.


Well, no. Look carefully. The icons are in the advance guard of style first (think Katherine Hepburn, who pioneered in pants) and the style then moves towards them. By that time, they may still be wearing their innovation, but their incarnations are new. By 2000, Miss H wasn't flaunting that pants suit from the propeller-plane rides with Howard Hughes. And Audrey updated her Givenchy, too.

The clothes may well look like vintage to you, but note that they are usually of exceedingly high quality (making the cloth glow, not rumple with age.) The icons update their accessories (Anna Wintour was in the vanguard of showing bare legs, and tinted hose) as well. And they are very, very, careful about fit. The dated floral print skirt that is now too tight, and the stretched-out tee, are not what they are repeating endlessly. The icons are not likely to hang onto kitten heels and high rounded toe boxes, either.

There are some vintage pieces that are worthy of keeping in your wardrobe, but they should be of first quality to start with, and you should add one vintage piece, at the most, to any ensemble, particularly if you are over 40. In the time of the pencil, a skirt with contrast seaming down the belly, double layer full hem in two mixed prints, and floral embroidery overlay, which fit better 15 pounds ago, worn with matched accessories in a very bright color, will look more like Little Bo-Peep than the editor of Vogue. Don't wait until it's too late to have moved on.

The Anti-Stylists

Yay! We should where what we want and not conform. I where old things and they look great. People who have the new things are all victims. My friends at work make fun of the girl who likes new cloths. They make fun of ludicrous prints like leopard. They say some cloths are hooker where. I know about self esteem and how long it lasts. I have the most.

I am mixed up about the shoes. You used to say we had to where high heals but now you say flats in NYC. So I was angry at the heals. I like flats. If they have a nice comfy place for the front of my foot witch comes up way past the toes. But I don't like to change. I love to match and I won't change that. I match my glasses frame to my jacket.
Thank you,
Socky

Hi there, Socky,
The tyranny of Anti-Stylistas is nasty, because they are interested in keeping people down. Dressing in fresh, elegant garb is empowering (and not that difficult.) Just look at a lovely woman who has recently discovered what works for her body, and made changes accordingly. She walks on air. Wearing clothes in consideration of how others see you is showing respect for them. Thinking only of your own opinion is just the opposite.

Remember, style is about how things look. It's not the only thing in the world (far from it!) but if it denies the beautiful, then it's about the power to make you feel small; like a bad teacher whose entire focus is on showing you how much she knows, not helping you to learn what you don't.

And, since I was lucky to have many good teachers, look for some flats that have a low profile (that show more of your foot) and please, don't match the bright accent colors in your outfits.

The Rest of Your Life

I was reading some philosophy about style, and I read the idea that anything that's appropriate at 35 for a given situation, is probably fine for just about the rest of your life, so long as it fits well and flatters your shape and coloring. What do you think?
Thanks,
Site Reader



Hello Reader!
The 35 year old mark is often used as a handy device to mark age appropriate dressing. So, we have preteen, teenagers, twenties, later twenties, early 30's; and 35 and up (approximately.) Folks are always asking me how to transition from one of these levels to another, and 35 is the top one; at that point, the clothing becomes ageless. But, please, note that 35 isn't the end of change. The clothing that is appropriate for weddings, work, or a nice dinner out, as well as other situations, does change. After a few years, and sometimes even sooner, no identical outfit is still good for those occasions. It's necessary to look at current 35 year olds, not those who were 35 in 1935 (a good year for little hats, not too many being still around, alas. Maybe in thrifts, but not on the streets.) Make no attempt to re-create the styles of the past, or to hang onto yours. Even if your best look is a classic, like a turtleneck, a pair of slacks and a raincoat, or a white button front shirt with a sleek pencil skirt and high heeled pumps; the slacks have a changed leg width; the shoulders of the coat have morphed; and the collar of the shirt isn't the same length as before. And don't get me started on the heels.

Therefore, I'd say that I disagree; and BTW, if you are still thinking of wearing something from any iconic age of your own, be sure that the fit is something that you are sure of. A flowered skirt over a protuberant abdomen, a too small tee pulling over the bosom, and a tight jacket perched over the whole thing isn't a pretty sight, especially on a woman over 35, who should know better.

Skirt Outfit

I have a beautiful full skirt that is mainly black with a sort of shadow print in slate blue. The fabric is dotted swiss so it is crisp rather than soft. I usually wear a black boatneck Tee or a mid-blue wrap jersey top-I am pretty satisfied with this.

But I am stuck on shoes and purse. Black ballet flats look like I haven't tried and pumps look uptight. I cop out with a white purse.

Thanks, Deb



Deb, what you need here are some medium wedges, maybe with a wood or cork platform.

I've chosen open toes, but there are many others out there.

The gray is a safe choice, but would you consider Red?

BTW, you can almost always substitute peanut for boring black, or white, in a purse.

Coach Sand

My 21 year old daughter wants to purchase a large Couch bag in a color called "sand." Is this color appropriate for year-round use? Also, can it be used with all colors of clothing? Thank you for your advice.
Sab

I couldn't find "Sand" on the Coach site. They do have a deep tan color called Natural that is great for all year, and is a terrific neutral for most outfits, too. If the sand is very light, it might not support a winter outfit. Look for something as least as dark as peanut, to be safe.

Too Much Red

I've been reading your advice about not matching colors exactly in favor of playing upon coordinating colors and having one "punch" of color in an outfit. Intellectually, it makes sense, and I think I have a fairly decent eye for color in the main components of my outfits. One thing that keeps tripping me up is the accessories.

One of my former favorite casual work outfits was khaki slacks, a denim-blue (fabric was a cotton knit, NOT denim) shirt, and I'd wear red shoes, a red watch, and earrings with a touch of red. Now I realize that there's too much RED in that outfit!

The problem of the red shoes and accessories brings me to my question: what color of accessories should one pair with an outfit including red shoes. The outfit I have in mind is a black knit 3/4 sleeve sweater, dark wash denim wide-leg jeans with red-plaid canvas Flats

I didn't know how to approach the jewelry in terms of color, so I just wore silver jewelry with clear stones ("diamonds"). It looked fine, but it seemed the safe answer. What's your suggestion?
Thanks, Elly


Hello Elly!

You've certainly learned the "too much red" concept, as well as the tricky "no matching" concept of accessories.

For your terrific casual outfit, noting the very casual style of the shoes, silver color is a great choice, and to punch things up a bit, I would suggest a more chunky and casual look: Stainless

There are ways to add interest to an outfit without resorting to color; these include texture and shape, both of which are dazzling in this style of jewelry. For a watch, I'd recommend a leather band.

You've raised the level of your jeans/flats outfit to something special. Congratulations!

BTW, this casual outfit has a print (plaid) so we've covered that base, but for an outfit in solids (like your first one) with red, always consider Leopard or another animal print for accessories (to replace the "too much red".)

Rachael's Stockings

For regular WNTW readers, here's the picture of Rachael Ray that was banned from that site. There are a few fashion problems in this photo, but don't miss the stockings: Flesh tone sheers, with shine. Worn with open toe shoes.

Bad Stockings

Outfit Overload

Outfit overload, LOL? What can an outfit have too much of?

Worst: Too much vintage (fooled you there, hmm?) Wearing a 5 year old jacket (look out shoulders!); an even older skirt, and kitten heels, doesn't look whimsical, it looks messy. If you love these ancient components, move away from the major elements, and add only a touch of vintage (some earrings?) Don't wait to buy in until a trend in basics (ie, denim pencils) hits the thrifts. Try a new basic, and add just one touch of vintage to your outfit. If the vintage is really, really high end, that's a plus, but still, just one piece, please.

Second: (OK, here it comes) Too many matching elements. That means more than two. Don't echo an accent color. Green glasses and a green jacket? Replace the glasses with tortoise shell, or wear the glasses with a neutral palette ensemble, so that they are the "punch of color" Too many punches of color, and it's a TKO.

Another: Too many fancy details. If you opt for dark eye make-up, don't add dark red lips. If the dress is shiny satin, omit the gold sandals. Casual hair can support a bright colored chiffon dress better than a beehive&twist. Don't look overdressed for daily activities.

And: Too many casual elements: Don't go to the grocery in sweats and an old tee, sneaks and a worn bag. Show a little care: Dark wash denim wide legs, and a nice cardi over the venerable tee, a chunky necklace of natural materials, a structured canvas tote.

Why not Gold Shoes?

On the WNTW board, you nixed Gold shoes with a bright yellow dress. Why? Gold shoes would have been my first choice for this dress. Explain, please.

Metallic gold wedge sandals won't support the chiffon sundress. They need a sporty white shirtdress, instead. Metallic wedges should be dressed down a bit. Gold leaf, plus a sandal, plus a high wedge, is a lot of statement for a shoe. Add the dress' chiffon, deep bright yellow, a waistband, and some cloth ties, and it's outfit overload. A plain, crisp white shirtdress can compliment gold shoes, but a chiffony yellow dress requires some contrast, like white patent. And, add a sharp navy clutch.

Friends Won't Tell You

SOS! I recently bought a knit wrap top. The color is beautiful, and all my friends say it looks great. But I was looking in the mirror and there's a noticeable large roll just above my waistband. Any ideas?

Visible rolls mean that it's not a perfect outfit. Rethink it. First, is the waistband of the pants causing the roll? Maybe you need a lower rise. Would a Spanx body shaping cami (check Bloomingdales) help? Is this the result of the weave of the cloth; too clingy? Is your torso too short to support so much cloth, and is the knit bulging as a result? Remember to dress the body that you have; and that the style that you love may not be the style that loves you. The structure of your clothes can create a better figure for you. Look for a top that's crisper, has a visible waist set in (like a horizontal empire line) or that floats away from your body at the problem spot.