Sweet Spot

HI! I have read several of your comments here and on other websites and was wondering what the "sweet spot" for jackets is. What is the proper length and style of jacket for a 56 y/o 5'5" chunky female? Is there a particular style (cropped, long, 3-4 botton, etc) that would be preferable.
Thanks...Joy

Ah, the Sweet Spot. It's elusive, but not impossible to find. The aim of your perfect outfits is to create an hourglass figure with the best proportion between legs and torso. If you'll re-read that, you'll see that it says the outfit will create the hourglass, not that you should be one naturally. Looking at the hourglass, you'll see that there's a narrow point just below the bust, at the torso; we'd like to emphasize this angle, too.

And a jacket is the perfect way to do so, because the jacket can be seamed to hold the curve in place, and visually superimpose it on your frame. The only mistake you can make is having the jacket end too low, so that your legs look too short, or too high, so that there isn't room for the visible illusion of the narrow part below the torso.

Here's a jacket that's done our poor model in. And she's tall and thin, believe me.

The collar adds bulk just below the neck, instead of creating a vee, to lead the eye to the curve of the bosom. The sleeves cut off just at our favorite narrowest point, creating a wide horizontal line, instead of emphasizing the vertical, and the sweet spot is totally obliterated, as the eye is drawn down to the hem of the jacket, somewhere south of the hips.

Now, compare and contrast this Jacket. No matter what size (not too tight! Let the jacket do the work.) This jacket is going to create a longer neck (Deep vee. Can be filled in with contrasting cami or shell); a curvy waist (see the seams; and the buttons are a cute touch.) and, if it stands far enough (just a half inch) away from the belly, and a dark, flat front skirt is worn under, that will disappear, too. Note where the cuffs end; on the forearms, above the usually narrow wrists. And the hem makes a line just where the torso should end, and the legs begin.

Will this jacket work for you? I can't tell from here. You'd have to try. But don't bother trying the first one, it won't work; of that you can be sure.

Pres