Dress for Authority

Hi Pres,

I'm going shopping this weekend and have a somewhat odd problem.

After a little over a year on my new job, I am experiencing some slippage in the respect I get from some of the people I have to work with. I am an advocate for a group of professional women. My work day includes meeting with them and often their managers, and sometimes attending political events. Many of the people I see are difficult, some are hostile.

Naturally, I am examining my behavior and manner of speaking to them all.

But as a big believer in appearance as a factor in many aspects of life, I've also taken a hard look and see that I have fallen into wearing pants and flat shoes, little jewelry, and letting my hair and makeup go a bit too casual. I am determined to change all that and go back to skirts and heels. I've scheduled an appointment for hair color and styling.

The shopping problem is: how to dress to establish authority and control (especially in the warm spring and summer) - even perhaps intimidate a little - and not look frumpish.

I'm nearly 60, short and roundish but hourglass shaped (size 12-16, depending), fair-skinned, reddish brown hair.

I've just gone through last year's clothes and can salvage only a light beige and a white jacket in terms of work clothes, so I need nearly everything new.

Thanks,
Gelinda

Hello Gelinda!

This is a perfect question. As you understand, your appearance does have an effect on your authority. And, there are several elements that are key in this, too.

Start with your eyebrows. Be sure that your brows are shaped perfectly for your eyes. Avoid a short "comma" with the thick part being near the nose, and the arch inward of the inside of the eye. The brow should be long enough, high enough, and the arch should be at least as far out as the outside margin of the iris (the colored part) of your eye; perhaps as far out as the outside corner of your eye. Use eyebrow mascara to cover gray. When using pencil to fill in missing parts, be sure to use many, many small strokes, not one thick one.

If you wear glasses, go for a solid frame in a bold color, and avoid a large round shape lens. An angular shape, with a horizontal axis, is better. We want those glasses to speak power.

Since you are doing your hair (good move) try for a style with straight, sharp lines, like a smooth, medium length bob with a straight edge all around. If you have curls or waves (don't add them) be sure that the ends of the hair are cut for a very straight, blunt line. Keep that auburn color burnished. Notice how many times I mentioned "straight"?

For clothes, there are two key elements in authoritative appearance: jackets, and shoes. The jacket is an essential part of this, and we will have to deal with it. Look for our favorite structured jacket with a visible waist. Avoid puff or gathered shoulders, and do not buy a jacket with short sleeves. For summer, look for cotton jackets, much like menswear. Menswear fabrics are best for showing authority. A pressed khaki poplin jacket, over a dark blue collared shirt with a navy or black cotton A-line skirt (not a gathered full skirt) will work for business casual; a black twill jacket is even better. If your office is business formal, get the suits, and wear them. If it's really too hot for a jacket, carry it outdoors, and wear it in A/C.

Dump all soft, pleated leather shoes, and look for a structured pump with a solid heel. No curvy kitten heels, please. Black and gray pumps are best; avoid the softer navy and brown.

For your bags and cases, remember straight lines, and structure. No hobos, no gathered sacs; and never, ever, carry a soft plastic bag from the grocery store. Transfer your purchases to a structured canvas bag with a contrasting bottom, perhaps with your initials embroidered on the side, in bold block letters.

We'll get 'em, Gelinda!
Pres